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Home : Patterns : Celtic Afghan
 

Free Crochet Pattern: Celtic Afghan

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice®
Pattern #: L20303
Rating: ****3.7 (based on 33 reviews)
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SKILL LEVEL:  Advanced Intermediate

SIZE: One Size

About 48 x 60 in. (122 x 152.5 cm)



CORRECTIONS: (applied Apr 17, 2013)
Diagram corrected and clarifications made.
The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected pattern text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of order (if purchased)
 
Crochet Kit Celtic Afghan $ 41.97

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Image of Celtic Afghan

Three classic cable patterns give this project lots of character and style.

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Color (A)
Vanna's Choice®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 860-099: Vanna's Choice Yarn: Linen
Click here for larger swatch
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MATERIALS
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QUANTITY PRICE ALT QTY  
•  860-099 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Linen
   balls
$ 52.68  
Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size N-13 (9 mm)   $ 2.95  
Lion Brand Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)   $ 3.59  
 

Celtic Afghan

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice®

GAUGE:

10 dc = about 4 in. (10 cm).

BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

BPDC (back post double crochet) Yo, insert hook from back to front then to back around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Skip st in front of the BPDC.
FPDC (front post double crochet) Yo, insert hook from front to back then to front around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.Skip st behind the FPDC.
BPTR (back post treble crochet) Yo twice, insert hook from back to front then to back around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times. Skip st in front of the BPTR.
FPTR (front post treble crochet) Yo twice, insert hook from front to back then to front around post of indicated st, draw up a loop, (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times. Skip st behind the FPTR.
FPTRCross (worked over 3 sts) Yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook 2 loops rem on hook), sk next Puff, yo twice (4 loops on hook), insert hook from front to back then front around post of next st, draw up a loop (5 loops on hook), (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook (1 loop rem on hook); working in front of st just completed, dc in Puff; yo twice, insert hook from front to back then to front around post of st before the same Puff, draw up a loop, (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, sk Puff, yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Puff (Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and draw up a loop) 5 times all in the same st, yo and draw through all 11 loops on hook.

PATTERN STITCHES
Cable Pattern 1 (worked over 3 sts)
Rows 1 and 3 (WS):
FPDC around next st, BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st.
Rows 2 and 4: BPTR around next st, FPTR around next st, BPTR around next st.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Cable Pattern 1.

Cable Pattern 2 (worked over 11 sts)
Rows 1 and 3 (WS):
(BPTR around next st, Puff in next st, BPTR around next st, dc in next st) twice, BPTR around next st, Puff in next st, BPTR around next st.
Rows 2 and 4: (FPTRCross, dc in next st) twice, FPTRCross.
Note: When working repeats of Row 1, work each BPTR around the post sts only of each FPTRCross.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Cable Pattern 2.

Cable Pattern 3 (worked over 17 sts)
Rows 1 and 3 (WS):
Dc in next 4 sts, BPTR around next 9 sts, dc in next 4 sts.
Row 2: Dc in next 4 sts, FPDC around next 3 sts, sk next 3 sts, FPTR around next 3 sts, working in front of 3 sts just worked, FPTR around the 3 skipped sts, dc in next 4 sts.
Row 4: Dc in next 4 sts, sk next 3 sts, FPTR around next 3 sts, working behind 3 sts just worked, FPTR around the 3 skipped sts, FPDC around next 3 sts, dc in next 4 sts.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Cable Pattern 3.

NOTES:

1. Three different cable patterns are worked across each row. We found that after working just a few rows, it was easy to determine which pattern should be worked. If you like, place a st marker between each of the patterns to help you keep your place.
2. When working post stitches, you are inserting the hook around the vertical bar of the stitch instead of under the top two loops of the stitch. The side of the work that faces you is the "front", and the side of the work that faces away from you is the "back". For example, to work a FPTR, work as follows:

a. Yarn over the hook twice (3 loops on hook).
b. Insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated st, as follows:
i. Insert hook from front to back into the space between sts that is immediately before the indicated st.
ii. Continue to bring the hook behind the indicated st, and insert it from back to front into the space between sts that immediately follows the indicated st.

c. Yarn over and draw the loop all the way back around the post of the st to the front of the work and up to the level of the sts in the current row (4 loops on hook).
d. (Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times (1 loop remains on hook)
e. Take care to skip the 2 loops at the top of the st into which you would usually work and are now "behind" the post st you just completed.

3. The FPTRCross isn't difficult! Just work carefully, step by step.

a. Yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops rem on hook).
b. Sk next Puff, yo twice (4 loops on hook).
c. Insert hook from front to back then front around post of next st, draw up a loop (5 loops on hook).
d. (Yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook (1 loop rem on hook).
e. Working in front of st just completed (this means you simply bring your hook in front of the st you just completed in steps a-d, before working the following instructions), dc in the Puff st.
f. Yo twice, insert hook from front to back then to front around post of st before the same Puff (you are working around the st before the Puff), draw up a loop (4 loops on hook).
g. (Yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice (2 loops rem on hook).
h. Sk the Puff, yo, insert hook in next st, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook).
i. Yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.


AFGHAN
Ch 121.
Foundation Row: Dc in 4th ch from hook (beg ch counts as first dc) and in each ch across - 119 dc at the end of this row.
Next Row (WS): Ch 3 (counts as first post stitch), turn, BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st (Row 1 of Cable Pattern 1 worked), working Row 1 of each pattern, work Cable Pattern 2 over next 11 sts, Cable Pattern 1 over next 3 sts, *Cable Pattern 3 over next 17 sts, Cable Pattern 1 over next 3 sts, Cable Pattern 2 over next 11 sts, Cable Pattern 1 over next 3 sts; rep from * to end of row.
Continue in patterns as established, working the next row of each Cable Pattern, until piece measures about 59 1/2 in. (151 cm) from beg.
Last Row: Ch 3, turn, dc in each st across.
Fasten off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.


 
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
dc = double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
sk = skip st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side yo = yarn over


  Learn to Crochet Instructions:  http://learnToCrochet.LionBrand.com


Ratings and Reviews
Pattern Average Rating: ****3.7 (based on 33 reviews)
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Celtic Afghan Reviewed by Judy A. Eisner on 2013-06-10 *****
Hi,

This is the most beautiful pattern for aran arghans that I ever made. I am very experienced with crochet, but the pattern should definitely be categorized as advanced. By the way, you don't have to pull the double crochet through to the front in pattern #2, rows 2 and 4. You can go over the post stitch, as long as it's in front of the work. I had to pull the work out once, but then I got it. Worth the trouble.

BY the way, I used an "L" hook. The "N" hook made the worsted weight yarn, recommended, much to large and too spacey.


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