SIZE: 1 year (2-3 years, 4-5 years, 6-7 years) Finished Chest 20 (23, 26, 28) in. (51 (58.5, 66, 71) cm) Finished Length 13 (15, 16 1/2, 18) in. (33 (38, 42, 45.5) cm) Note Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
MATERIALS To
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Note: (A)
Note: (B)
Note: (C)
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Additional Materials 1 button, 1/2 in. (13 mm) diameter
Striped Swing Sweater
Lion Brand® Baby Wool
GAUGE:
18 sts + 34 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (k every row);
20 sts + 26 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS);
26 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in K1, p1 Rib slightly stretched.
BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
STITCH EXPLANATION:
M1 (make 1) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal thread lying between needles and placing it onto left needle. Knit this new stitch through the back loop - 1 st increased.
PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib (worked over an even number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row. Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.
NOTES:
1. Sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and Sleeves, then seamed together.
2. The Back and Front are worked in 3 different stitches: Garter st (k every row), St st (k on RS, p on WS), and K1, p1 Rib. Each stitch has a slightly different stitch gauge, this gauge change will create the 'swing' shape of the Sweater.
3. Back neck is divided to create a keyhole (slit) opening.
BACK
With A, cast on 66 (74, 84, 90) sts.
Work in Garter st (k every row) until piece measures 4 1/2 (5, 6, 6 1/2) in. (11.5 (12.5, 15, 16.5) cm from beg.
Change to B.
With B, work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 7 1/2 (8 1/2, 9 1/2, 10) in. (19 (21.5, 24, 25.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Note: End with a WS row means that the last row you work should be a WS row, and the next row that you are ready to work will be a RS row.
Change to C.
With C, work in K1, p1 Rib until piece measures 8 1/2 (10, 11, 12) in. (21.5 (25.5, 28, 30.5) cm) from beg. Shape Armholes
Next Row: Bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) sts, work in K1, p1 Rib as established to end of row.
Rep last row once - 54 (58, 64, 66) sts rem. Next (Decrease) Row: K1, k2tog, work in K1, p1 Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1. Next Row: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep last 2 rows until 46 (48, 54, 56) sts rem.
Work even (without increasing or decreasing) in K1, p1 Rib until armhole measures 4 (4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2) in. (10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm). Divide for Neck
Note: Neck is divided by working each side with a separate ball of yarn to create a slit at the center back neck. Next Row: Work in K1, p1 Rib across 23 (24, 27, 28) sts, join a 2nd ball of yarn and work in K1, p1 Rib to end of row.
Rep last row twice more, then bind off each set of 23 (24, 27, 28) sts using separate balls of yarn.
FRONT
Work same as for Back until armhole measures 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. (7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm) - 46 (48, 54, 56) sts rem. Shape Neck
Next Row: Work in K1, p1 Rib across 12 (12, 14, 14) sts, join a second ball of yarn and bind off the next 22 (24, 26, 28) sts, work in K1, p1 Rib to end of row. Next Row: Work in K1, p1 Rib, work across first 12 (12, 14, 14) sts, with separate ball of yarn work in K1, p1 Rib to end of row.
Rep last row until piece measures same as Back.
Bind off.
SLEEVE (make 2)
With A, cast on 56 (62, 68, 74) sts.
Work in Garter st until piece measures 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. (7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm) from beg.
Change to C. Next (Decrease) Row: K1, *k1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1 - 38 (42, 46, 50) sts at the end of this row.
Work in K1, p1 Rib until piece measures 6 (7, 8, 9) in. (15 (18, 20.5, 23) cm) from beg.
Change to B. Next (Increase) Row: K1, *k2, M1; rep from * to last st, k1 - 56 (62, 68, 74) sts.
Work even (without increasing or decreasing) in St st until piece measures 7 (9, 10 1/2, 11 1/2) in. (18 (23, 26.5, 29) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. Note: End with a WS row means that the last row you will will be a WS row and you will be ready to work a RS row. Shape Sleeve Cap (Top of Sleeve)
Next Row: Bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) sts, work in St st as established to end of row.
Rep last row once more - 44 (46, 48, 50) sts rem. Next (Decrease) Row (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next Row (WS): Purl.
Rep last 2 rows until 24 sts rem, end with a WS row. Next (Decrease) Row: K1, (k2tog) across to last st, k1 - 13 sts at the end of this row.
Bind off.
FINISHING
Seam shoulders. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams.
Buttonloop
Note: Left back refers to the left side as Sweater is worn.
From RS, with crochet hook, join C with a slip st on left Back top of neck slit.
Chain 6, then slip st back in same place on Sweater. Fasten off.
Sew button opposite buttonloop.
Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click for explanation and illustration
Love the sweater and the pattern. Just completed the largest size for my daughter. Knit in gauge. When purchasing yarn for this I bought 4 of the orchid one more than recommended for size I still rampur of yarn. I should have bought 5. I had to shorten the length of the sleeves by 1/2 in on each one. Thankfully I was making both sleeves together of I would have been up a creek with unmatching sleeves or never completing the project. The sweater turned out perfect and my daughter loves it and the colors are fantastic. Bottom line love the sweater and pattern just make sure to purchase extra of the orchid color.
When you are in New York City, visit the Lion Brand Yarn Studio at 34 W. 15th Street for a one-of-a-kind yarn lover's experience.
For more information, visit the website, LionBrandYarnStudio.com
BACK
FRONT
SLEEVE (make 2)
