It’s hard to believe that I’m near the “finishing line” of this Cable Luxe Tunic! Actually, I still have one sleeve to finish–and I will try it on my daughter before I finish the sleeves. The yoke was very fun to do, and I realized that at the end that I could have done this yoke in the round on the 24″ circular needle. If you decide to do that, just remember that you have to knit one round and purl one round to get the garter stitch. Also, if you work in the round with garter stitch, you will still get a “jog” (or a line) at the beginning of the round when you switch between the knit rounds and the purl rounds. Here is what the back of my yoke looked like when I finished:

I bound off on the wrong side of my yoke to create the purl ridge at the top of yoke – which is very pretty. If you do this in the round, then you may want to bind off purlwise at the top. It really took very little time to sew the back yoke seam because sewing up garter stitch is basically sewing under each ridge from both sides.

There is a great tutorial of this sewing technique in the Lion Brand Learning Center. Now here is the yoke seam all finished!

OK, now the only sewing left to do is the side seams, but make sure you sew the underarm seams first that was shown in my fourth post. The sleeve and side seams are just reverse stockinette stitch. Again, I am sewing them with the right side facing, and I simply sew into each purl “bump” at the sides.

I found my edges curled quite a bit, so I spritzed them with a spray bottle and let them dry. This eased those edges to make the edges easier to sew. So now I just have to finish that last sleeve, get the right sleeve measurements, and weave in those ends! Thanks to all of you (especially Connie) who have been answering questions and keeping this KAL very fun! I better get my camera charged to take a picture of my finished Cable Luxe Tunic–and maybe have it modeled as well!
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A Happy New Year to all of you! I’m sure many of you have been very busy these last few weeks with all sorts of holiday projects. My Cable Luxe Tunic has been sticking up out of my knitting bag trying to get my attention – and now it finally has it again! Quite of few of you have felt you’ve gotten behind on this KAL, but now that the calm of January is here, you can continue (or start!) this project and actually learn from all the hints that other knitters of the tunic have posted so far.
So, where am I on the tunic? I had thought that by now I’d have both the front, back, and both sleeves done — and would be working away on the yoke — the reality is that I have the back finished, and a sleeve done. When I finished the first sleeve, I realized that maybe I would have to adjust the length for my daughter, since she likes to wear her sleeves longer. I decided to put the sleeve stitches on a holder, and get going on the yoke, so that she can try it on before I finish the sleeves.

When I started the yoke, I caught myself ready to make another mistake! Luckily, I reread the instructions and saw that the circular needle I need for the yoke has to be a size smaller than the needle used for the body of the sweater. I needed a US 9 needle for the tunic, so I used a size 8 24″ circular needle for the yoke. The instructions told me to start at that back center seam of the cable strip and pick up all the way around back to the seam. I placed 4 markers on the top edge of the strip right above marking the spots where the back, left sleeve, front, and right sleeve start.

With the right side facing, I picked up the stitches just like I did when I picked up for the back, front and sleeves. I really love to use markers that attached to my knitting and this isn’t the only time I will use them for my yoke. I picked up the 130 stitches for the yoke, which is what the small size total stitch count. To make sure the stitches didn’t fall off the end of my needle, I put a point protector on the other end of the needle.
Although the pattern asks for a circular needle, the yoke itself is knit back and forth, so I placed a marker at the end of the row to remind me to turn my work and knit back. Could you knit this yoke in the round? Sure you can — all you need to do is remember to work the garter stitch in the round which is knit 1 round, then purl one round. And also remember that if your stitches get too tight around your needle after your decreases, you may have to switch to a 16″ circular or double-pointed needles to get to the top. I’m doing the yoke as it is written in the pattern, and I don’t mind the seam in the back which will continue from the seam in the cable strip. By knitting it in rows, I knit every row to get garter stitch this way.
For all the sizes, the yoke decreases every 6th row and for the small size I have to decrease 13 stitches evenly across each decrease row. To make this easier, I am using my markers again to mark 13 places in my knitting. Since there are 130 stitches, I will place a marker every 10 stitches (I decided to go in 5 sts on each end of the row — this still makes 10 sts between each marker, and I won’t have to decrease right at the edge of my row.)

Now I will knit the 2 stitches before each marker together on every decrease row. After all my decrease rows, I can remove the markers and just knit up until the garter stitch yoke measures 3″ from where I picked up the stitches. So that’s my plan and if all goes well, I should have this tunic ready to sew up next week. Here’s wishing you all a year filled with happiness, health, and as much knitting as you can fit in a year!
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I’m now into the heavy-duty knitting part of this tunic. I really like looking at the cables going in different directions in this sweater, and I’m also having a great time seeing pictures of some of your tunics grow as well! Have I made mistakes along the way? Well, I always do! But I tell my students that in order to be a good knitter, you have to be a good ripper. When I was working a couple of 3/3 cables instead of 4/4 cables in that center cable panel, back I ripped. I’m glad I did as it would have been one very uneven center cable if I hadn’t fixed it.
After I finished the back I could have worked the front (which is identical to the back) between the sections that I marked off for it. Instead, I decided to work on one of the sleeves, so that we could look at how the sleeve grows from that original cable yoke strip. For the small size, I needed to pick up 46 stitches between areas marked for the front and back. I started with what will be my right sleeve and picked up my first stitch right next to the back. Unlike the back, the sleeve does not have a center cable, just 2 slipped stitches between the smaller cables as you can see in the picture.

The increasing at the sides of the sleeve is identical to the back. I wanted to get going on this sleeve to show something that will be very important to finishing the tunic and make the sleeves fit correctly. Some knitters who have done this tunic have had a problem with the armholes ending up much too narrow. After looking at some of the pictures of the finished tunics on Ravelry, I think the problem is in the finishing of the underarm seams. Before sewing up the side and sleeve seams, make sure to sew together the front and the backs to the sleeves along the areas where you first did all the side increases and ended up casting on stitches.

I have sewn the first of these 4 underarm seams here to show you, and once again I sewed them together with right side facing me. This seam will be under your arm and will give your tunic great shape and enough width.

My first sleeve is going very well, and I was surprised to see that after you do those first side increases and cast on stitches, that you just work evenly from that point on. Only the front and back flare, while the sleeves stay the same width all the way to the end. Now with the sleeves and the front to be finished, I will be keeping extra busy with the two weeks that will pass until my next post in the New Year. Thanks to those of you who have been answering (and asking!) questions, and I wish you all the best this season! Keep Knitting and Happy Holidays!
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This last week I have learned the true definition of “knit-along.” When I was asked to host this KAL, I thought I would only be showing my progress on making the Cable Luxe Tunic and also give some advice along the way. What I have found, to my surprise, is how we really are doing this together, and those of you working on this project are not only asking some great questions, but answering others’ questions, giving great advice, and even finding a couple of “hiccups” in the pattern.

The first part of this back has raised more than a few questions, so I will explain why certain parts of the back are worked the way they are - and give a few hints on increasing. After I picked up the stitches for the back, the instructions ask for increases at both sides of back. The increases are done one stitch at a time on each side for a few rows, and then the pattern calls for casting on a number of stitches all at the same time.
Here is a picture of the left side of my back (as I am looking at it) and you can see the stitches that have increased on the edge. This increased edge will later be sewn to the same increased edge of the adjacent sleeve to create a nice seam under the arm. Although this looks a little unusual, it will give the tunic great shape under that arm!
Now, many of you have asked about that slipped stitch that is between the cables. It is simply made by slipping the stitch on the right side of your work and purling it on the wrong side. When I increased for the underarm, I placed one more slipped stitch 2 stitches away from the edge cables. It is in these areas where there are 2 purl stitches (between the slipped stitch and the cable) where I will work the increases to make the tunic start to flare.
Here is where that “hiccup” is in the pattern. After the “Shape the Waist” section of the pattern, the instructions tell you to work your increases on row 3 of the Center Cable Pattern and on row 3 of the 3/3 cable. The increases should be worked on row 3 of the second repeat of the Center Cable pattern, but that makes that row actually row 7 of the 3/3 cable. I’m sure many of you just kept working your cable patterns repeats as written, but the pattern has been corrected.
Some of you have asked where to work your increase in the purl sections between the slipped stiches and the cable patterns. I did a “make 1″ purlwise (raised-bar increase) on each side of the cable patterns. This picture shows how invisible this increase can be — the bottom part of the picture has 2 purl stitches between the cables and the slipped stitches, and the top has 3. If you have never done the “make 1″ increase, the Lion Brand Learning Center has a great tutorial to show you. Click here for instructions.

I will increase like this for the next 2 times I am on row 3 of my center cable pattern. Then I will increase no more on the back and can just work up straight. It’s all downhill after this point, because the front is the same as the back!
In New York City for the holidays? Stop by the Lion Brand Yarn Studio to see our Cable Luxe Tunic on display!
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Just a reminder: If you have a blog/website/Ravelry page, add our Cable Luxe Tunic KAL badge to your blog/site/Ravelry page, and show that you’re knitting along!
Simply right-click the badge and “Save image as” to save it to your computer — Ctrl+click and “Save image as” on Macs — and then upload it to your blog/site/Ravelry page as you would a picture.
Enjoy!
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Well, I’m thankful I had two weeks between my first and second post for the Cable Luxe Tunic KAL because life has been full of family, fun, and food this Thanksgiving! Not a lot of time for knitting, but I have actually found working on this sweater enjoyable, since it is done one step at a time. I have been thrilled to hear from all of you who have joined us! For those who feel a little pressed for time during the holidays or think that this tunic may be too complicated for you, here is my advice: Take this sweater step-by-step. This sweater doesn’t have different parts worked on at the same time, but instead each part of the sweater is worked in order.
In my last post, I had started the cable strip that goes around the upper part of the sweater. I’m making the smallest size for my daughter, and the instructions stated that I should end at 44″ and with row 2 of the 16 row cable repeat. I’m betting that not too many ended up exactly at their measurement – and I ended up at around 43″. If you’re not at the exact measurement when you hit that last row 2, just end at the row 2 that is the closest to your measurement, and then bind off on the next row. Why end on row 2? Well, this is a good break to sew together the beginning and end of the strip. I noticed that the cable strip curled quite a lot on the edges, so like I almost always do, I dampened the piece with a spray bottle of water and let it dry completely. It eased considerably and made it easier to sew and pick-up stitches–and I was able to shape it to the 44″ asked for in the pattern!
Sewing knitted pieces together is probably over half of what I have to teach to my students. Many of them are so surprised when I show them that the best way to sew most of their pieces together is to have the right sides facing them while sewing. So, to show how to sew the cabled strip together, I’m showing the progress of my sewing in this picture with contrast thread (my needle is inserted in the next stitch to be sewn – I took the yarn out of the needle so you can see the needle!)

Here it is, all sewn with the pink Wool-Ease. See how the cable continues through the seam since we ended with row 2?

Now, I have the completed the cable strip, which the rest of the sweater will grow from, starting with the back. In this sweater, as important as your needles, will be stitch markers to guide you. I love the split-ring type of markers that you can attach to either your knitting or on your needles. I need to mark my strip 7″ on each side of the cable strip seam. I will mark exactly where my back, front, and sleeves will be before I pick up for the back. This way I can make sure both the front and the back are the same width, and that both sleeves will measure the same as well. I have to pick up 82 stitches for the back, so between the back markers, I will evenly space 3 other (different color) markers to make 4 smaller spaces where I will pick up 20, 21, 20, and 21 stitches. This makes picking up the total 82 stitches so much easier, and I know they will be picked up evenly.

Some of you may have already noticed that the instructions now split-off for the different sizes. This looks complicated, but I have already circled all the instructions for the small size I’m doing, including the parts that give instructions for all the sizes. Now I will be working on that back this week, but the nice thing is that I am only working on the back and don’t need to think about what I will need to do for the front, sleeves, and yoke yet. That’s my type of holiday knitting with so many other things that need to be done on my to do list!
For those of you in the New York City area, stop by the Lion Brand Yarn Studio to see a sample of the Cable Luxe Tunic live!
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Greetings, cable-loving knitters, to the second Knit-Along (KAL) by Lion Brand! I am very excited to be the host of this KAL and look forward to making this gorgeous Cable Luxe Tunic along with so many of you. I was thrilled that so many of you voted for this tunic because I have wanted to make it for awhile myself! As a knitwear designer who sends away much of what I make, I have often referred to my two daughters as the “Cobbler’s Children” based on the story of a cobbler who sold all of the shoes he made, resulting in his kids being barefoot! The oldest of my kids, Lizzie, will be getting a fabulous cable sweater as a result of this KAL that she can wear as she goes off to college next year.
I have been a knitting teacher and freelance knit and crochet designer for about 15 years now. I learn so much from my students when it comes to explaining how to knit or finish a project, so I will do my best to answer questions or give you hints to help you with knitting this beautiful sweater.
First things first. Go ahead and download that pattern for the Cable Luxe Tunic! It is only free to download until November 27th, so make this the first thing on your list of things to do.
Now comes the important question of what yarn to use. Although the yarn used in the pattern is Wool-Ease, there are many yarn choices perfect for this pattern. Other yarns that would be great to use would be Vanna’s Choice, Cotton-Ease, Fishermen’s Wool, or Lion Cashmere Blend. Just remember to use a yarn listed as “Category 4 – medium worsted-aran weight” yarn and make sure you have at least the same amount of total yardage as called for in the Wool-Ease to make the size you want. A smooth, light, or bright color yarn will be best to show off all those cables!
What yarn did I pick out? Actually, I decided on Wool-Ease. One reason is that there were so many great color choices. The one I chose was a perfect pink, Blush Heather, that I know my daughter will love. Secondly, as she will be heading off to college this next year, this will make a wonderfully warm sweater that she will be able to wash and dry on her own. I will be making the small for her and I already have my 7 balls of Wool-Ease. I’m ready to get knitting!

My students know I am quite a stickler when it comes to making a gauge swatch, and it is always the first step to making sure a sweater will be the size you want. The pattern gives 2 different gauges, one in stockinette stitch and another in cable pattern. I concentrated on the gauge for the stockinette stitch, which will tell me the size of the largest needle to use. The gauge calls for 18 sts = 4″. An easy way I get the gauge is to make a swatch starting with the size needle called for — a US 8 (5 mm). I like to cast on either 3 or 4 stitches on each side of the 18 sts to make a garter stitch border, which makes it very easy to measure the center 18 sts in stockinette stitch. When I made the swatch using the US 8 needles, the measurement over the 18 sts was about 3.5″ — too small. To make the stitches larger, I went up one needle size to a US 9 and the swatch measured a perfect 4″ between the garter stitch borders. For this sweater, I’m most concerned about the number of stitches, rather than rows, as it will affect the width of the garment (although the row gauge was right on as well!) I will use a needle one size smaller — US 8 — for the circular needle for the yoke of the sweater.
Now, I’m ready for the first part of this sweater –- making the beautiful cabled strip (see above) that will go all around the tunic just below the yoke. This cable pattern is a 16 row repeat pattern, so I find either marking down on paper what row I’m on or using a row counter a great help. I will be busy knitting this pattern for 44″ during the two weeks until my next post. In the meantime, print that pattern, get your yarn, get swatching, and have a very happy Thanksgiving! (Our next post will be Dec. 4.) I look forward to seeing your pictures (join our Flickr group) and hearing from you!
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Last month, we asked you which pattern you would like for our next knit-along. Although there were many votes for the Zen Coat and the Cabled Cashmere Sweater, the winner was the Cable Luxe Tunic!
Our KAL host will be Heather, a great freelance designer and knitting teacher. Please welcome her and introduce yourself!
Heather’s first post will be next Thursday, but in the meantime, go get your supplies, download and/or print the pattern (available for FREE only until November 27th ESPECIALLY for KAL participants), and get ready to knit with us!
No need to sign up or anything! Just follow along with the blog, and chat with us here, on Ravelry, or on Flickr. With all of the holidays coming up, we’ll be working at a leisurely pace, so jump in whenever you want!
We look forward to having you join us!
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Today I knitted the final Tulip-Bud Border repeat and sewed it in place. What a sense of accomplishment. The project took 2 months and had some challenging parts that improved my knitting and pattern reading skills. I’m glad to move on to a new project finally, but I had a great time knitting it.
The Tulip-Bud Border itself is really a great finishing touch. The minute I sewed it on, the afghan just looked amazing. The pattern is an 18 row repeat done on 2 needles so it went very quickly, and after a dozen or so repeats I was able to work without following the pattern, which just made it go faster. There are 2 ways to handle the border. You can knit the full length and then sew it onto the afghan, or sew it into place as you go. I liked the idea of knitting a few repeats and then sewing it in place as I went, since I wasn’t sure how many repeats were needed (and it felt like I was getting more done), but in the end, I chose to knit the full length and sew it on later, simply because this made the project portable. It’s so small that it’s a perfect project to work on during my daily commute. (In case you decide to do the border this way, the total number of repeats I needed was 77.)
I was also inspired, while doing the border, to use this same pattern as a border for the hem of a skirt. The only thing to change would be to use smaller needles and a thinner, finer yarn. I can’t wait!
I truly hope you all enjoyed this project, and that you all enjoy the finished product whether it is a gift or for your own home. I decided that mine would make the perfect engagement gift for my dear friends who are moving to a new home. There’s nothing like a handmade gift and this afghan and the intertwining trees just seemed perfect for a couple of great people who decided to share their lives (and their space) with each other. Maybe I’ll even wear a dress with a tulip bud hem to the wedding.
All the best, and Happy Knitting!
Corinna
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Having completed a full repeat of each of patterns (Twin Trees, Dividing Rows, and Flower Garden), the afghan gets easier and easier.
Even though I still had to follow the pattern chart for the Twin Trees, I found that my work pace got really fast, and I didn’t feel like I had to worry or pay such close attention anymore. And just in time for some perfect New York weather too!
So far, I’ve knitted on my roof, at my sunday morning knitting club while sipping coffee, and I even took the afghan and got in a few rows at a BBQ in a friend’s back yard. I love to be able to spend time with friends and get out of the house, while still being productive; and of course the response to the impressive looking afghan is unbelievable. Everyone wants to work on it, and learn the stitches.
Tonight, curled up on my couch with my three cats, watching North By Northwest (my favorite Hitchcock film) I’m just about to bind off, after the final Twin Trees repeat. I don’t know if there is anything more gratifying than, cozying up under a project that you’re still working on. Once I bind off, all that will be left to do is the border edge, which I’m really looking forward too.
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