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Home : Patterns : Robo-Blanky
 

Free Crochet Pattern: Robo-Blanky

Lion Brand« Wool-Ease® - Vanna's Glamour«
Pattern #: RoboBlanky
Rating: **1.5 (based on 2 reviews)
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SKILL LEVEL:  Intermediate (Level 3)

SIZE: One Size

About 37" (94 cm) wide by 32" (81.5 cm) tall



CORRECTIONS: (applied Mar 3, 2014)
Horizontal Connecting Bars section added.
The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected pattern text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of order (if purchased)
 
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Image of Robo-Blanky

Reproduced with permission from Beastly Crochet by Brenda K.B. Anderson, published by Interweave Knits.

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Color (A)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-099: Wool-Ease Yarn: Fisherman
Click here for larger swatch

Color (B)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-153: Wool-Ease Yarn: Black
Click here for larger swatch

Color (C)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-120: Wool-Ease: Chili
Click here for larger swatch

Color (D)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-118: Wool-Ease: Indigo
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Color (E)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-167: Wool-Ease Yarn: Eggplant
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Color (F)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-159: Wool-Ease Yarn: Mustard
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Color (G)
Wool-Ease®

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 620-174: Wool-Ease Yarn: Avocado
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Color (H)
Vanna's Glamour«

Click here to enlarge image and see more about item 861-153: Vanna's Glamour Yarn: Onyx
Click here for larger swatch
To change colors, simply select color name from the drop-down above or else click the swatch you want to change and then click a color below
Vanna's Glamour«
Diamond Lapis Sapphire Ruby Red Red Stone Copper Purple Topaz Jewel
Moonstone Platinum Grey Stone Onyx Topaz Gold Bronze Garnet
Rhinestone Pink
Wool-Ease®
Natural Heather Fisherman Ranch Red Blush Heather Blue Heather Navy Denim Blue Mist
Seaspray Mink Brown Cocoa Cranberry Dark Rose Heather Rose Heather Grey Heather Oxford Grey
Black Mustard Blossom Eggplant Gold Sage Avocado Chestnut Heather
Forest Green Heather Paprika Denim Twist Pumpkin Wood Multi White/Multi Wheat Mushroom
White Frost
*Wool-Ease® (Article #620).
  • Solid, Heather, Twist: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  • Sprinkles, Wheat, Mushroom, Rainbow Mist: 86% acrylic, 10% wool, 4% rayon
  • Glitter/Multi-colors: 78% acrylic, 19% wool, 3% polyester
  • Frosts: 70% acrylic, 20% wool, 10% polyamide
  • Prints: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
; package size: Solid, Heather, Twist: 3 oz/85g; 197 yd/180m balls
Sprinkles, Wheat, Mushroom, Rainbow Mist: 3 oz/85g; 197 yd/180m balls
Glitter/Multi-colors: 2.5 oz./70g; 162 yd/146m balls
Frosts: 2.5 oz./70g; 162 yd/146m balls
Prints: 2.5 oz/70g; 162 yd/146m balls
*Vanna's Glamour (Article #861). 96% Acrylic, 4% Metallic Polyester; package size: 1.75oz/49.61 gr. (202yds/185m) pull skeins

You can also buy materials separately
 
MATERIALS
To change colors, click the drop-down list or swatches above
QUANTITY PRICE ALT QTY  
•  620-099 Wool-Ease Yarn: Fisherman
   balls
$ 18.76  
Note: MC
•  620-153 Wool-Ease Yarn: Black
   ball
$ 4.69  
Note: CC1
•  620-120 Wool-Ease: Chili
   ball
$ 4.69  
Not available, sorry!
Select a different color or click for yarn substitutions
Note: CC2
•  620-118 Wool-Ease: Indigo
   ball
$ 4.69  
Not available, sorry!
Select a different color or click for yarn substitutions
Note: CC3
•  620-167 Wool-Ease Yarn: Eggplant
   ball
$ 4.69  
Note: CC4
•  620-159 Wool-Ease Yarn: Mustard
   ball
$ 4.69  
Note: CC5
•  620-174 Wool-Ease Yarn: Avocado
   ball
$ 4.69  
Note: CC6
•  861-153 Vanna's Glamour Yarn: Onyx
   ball
$ 4.69  
Note: CC7 (used to embroider the features)
Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size H-8 (5 mm)   $ 2.45  
Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size F-5 (3.75 mm)   $ 2.30  
Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers   $ 2.49  
Lion Brand Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)   $ 3.59  
Additional Materials
Quilter's pins
 

Robo-Blanky

Lion Brand« Wool-Ease® - Vanna's Glamour«

GAUGE:

15 sts and 19 rows-4" (10 cm) in sc st using size H hook

When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Making a Gauge Swatch

NOTES:

This pattern uses the term "rotate work". This is not the same as "turn work". While keeping the same side (the RS) facing you at all times, rotate work 180 degrees, like turning a steering wheel.


Construction Plan
Each robot square is made separately, using the intarsia method for working the color changes. Strips of background color are made separately, and then slip stitched between the robot squares to attach them together. After all squares have been attached, the border of the blanket is worked in the rnd. The embroidery st called “chain stitch” is used to help define the edges of the robots, as well as to make the details of each robot pop.

Robot Square
With MC and larger hook, chain 26 sts. Begin working from chart.
row 1 (rs): Starting with the second chain from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, 1 sc into each st across—25 sts.
rows 2–36: Ch 1, turn at the beginning of each row. Work Rows 2–36 from the chart, omitting chain sts to be worked on later. Each row is worked in sc, including MC sts where there is a chain st. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Edging of Robot Square
Ch 1, turn as if to work another row. RS is now facing. Work 3 sc into the first st, 1 sc into each of the next 23 sts, 3 sc into the last st. Please note that the center st of each group of three sc is the “corner stitch.” Mark each corner st with st marker if you think you will not be able to find the corner st just by looking at it later. Rotate work clockwise so that you can crochet into the ends of rows. Make 28 sts equally along the side edge of Robot Square. You may find it helpful to mark the halfway point along side edge. Then you can make 14 sc sts on either side of marker. Rotate work clockwise again. Working across bottom edge of square, 3 sc into the first st, 1 sc into each of the next 23 sts, 3 sc into the last st of foundation row. Rotate work clockwise again to work along other side of Robot Square. Make 28 sts equally spaced along edge, sl st into the first sc of edging to join—114 sts. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
ROBOT SQUARE COLORS
You will make 2 versions of each Robot Square as follows (background color is always MC, CC is as listed). There should be a total of 12 Robot Squares:
“Beep” in colors CC2 and CC3.
“Zing” in colors CC4 and CC5.
“James” in colors CC3 and CC6.
“Bop” in colors CC3 and CC5.
“Bam” in colors CC2 and CC4.
“Meep” in colors CC4 and CC6.

ROBOT DETAILS
“Beep” in CC2 and CC3
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot, antennae (on top of head) and outline of mouth by working a chain st (this is the embroidery term, not the crochet term) around entire edge of Robot. Use same Contrast color to double-satin st a small knob at the top of antenna. Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the eyes, the square screen on front of Robot and knobs. Make sure you divide eyes by making 2 or 3 vertical chain sts through center of eye rectangle. Use CC7 to double satin st the square Pupils onto eyes. The Pupils are placed in the center of each eye, touching the top outline of eye, but not the bottom, so it looks like the Robot is looking up. Use CC7 to embroider a series of 1’s and 0’s in the screen, or whatever message you want: a child’s name or birthdate, etc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

“Zing” in CC4 and CC5
Intarsia Tips

If you come to a color change in the chart, but the working yarn in the desired color is hanging from your work several sts past where you want to make the color change, loosely bring the yarn (along the top edge of work) toward the location of your hook, and change to this new color as normal. This leaves a long float along the top edge of your work. As you work toward the origin of the float, crochet over the float to hide it. Conversely, if you reach the color that you will eventually change to, but you have several more sts to make in the old color before you switch to this new color, just carry this new color along the top edge of your work while you work over it, covering the long float with your sts. Then when you are ready to change colors, it will be right there waiting for you.
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot by working a chain st around entire edge of Robot. Use same Contrast color and chain st to embroider the arms and claws onto the sides of Robot.
Eyelids
With the same Contrast color, and smaller hook, ch 15.
row 1: Starting with second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, [1 sl st into each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc into the next st, 2 hdc into the next st, 1 sc into the next st, 1 sl st into each of the next 2 sts] twice—16 sts. Fasten off with long tail.
Pupils
With smaller hook and CC7, make an adjustable loop.
rnd 1: 6 sc into loop, sl st into first sc to join, fasten off; pull on beginning yarn tail to tighten loop—6 sts.
Using yarn tails and yarn needle, stitch each Pupil to the sides of head so that center of Pupil is one st away from the side edge of head, and it is even with the top edge of head. Pin Eyelids onto blanket square so that they surround Pupils. The top edge of Pupil should be hidden by the edge of upper lid and the first and last st of Eyelids should be touching.
Using yarn tails and yarn needle, st Eyelids around Pupils along the inside border as well as the outside border of Eyelid.
Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the mouth and each of the 3 gauges on front of Robot. Make one line that radiates out from the center of each gauge using yarn needle and CC7. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

“James” in CC3 and CC6
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot by working a chain st (this is the embroidery term, not the crochet term) around entire edge of Robot and extending outward from sides of head for antenna. Use same Contrast color to double satin st a small knob at the end of each antenna. Use same Contrast color and chain st to create arms and claws. Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the eyes and mouth. Divide eyes by making 2 or 3 vertical chain sts through center of eye rectangle. Use CC7 to double satin st the square Pupils onto eyes. I placed the Pupils in the center of each eye, touching the bottom outline of eye, but not the top, so it looks like the Robot is looking down. Divide teeth by making 5 vertical lines of chain sts through tooth crescent shape. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

“Bop” in CC3 and CC5
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot by working a chain st around entire edge of Robot. Use the chain st to connect each antenna knob to the head by making a few vertical chain sts between them. Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the eyes and the meter on front of Robot. Add a line for the mouth by adding chain sts between Rows 21 and 22 across the entire robot in CC7. Chain st beginning from inner right edge to opposite inner left edge between eyes and meter for mouth (between Rows 21 and 22 of chart). Use CC7 to double satin st the square Pupils onto eyes.
The Pupils are placed to the right of each eye, touching the right outline of eye, but not the left, so it looks like the Robot is looking to its left. Use CC7 to embroider the details of the meter. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

“Bam” in CC2 and CC4
Eye whites

With smaller hook and MC, make an adjustable loop.
rnd 1: 6 sc into loop, sl st into first sc to join, fasten off; pull on beginning yarn tail to tighten loop—6 sts. Using MC yarn tails and yarn needle, stitch each Eye White onto head. Using CC7 and yarn needle, embroider a straight line for mouth, and make a large French knot in the center of each Eye White.
Using MC and yarn needle, make a vertical line using chain st embroidery to separate the legs.
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot and outline of mouth by working a chain st (this is the embroidery term, not the crochet term) around entire edge of Robot, including up along each side of MC division line between legs. Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the square screen on front of Robot. Use CC7 to embroider a zigzag line in the screen. Using MC and yarn needle, make 2 columns of 4 French knots to the left of the screen on Bam’s chest. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

“Meep” in CC4 and CC6
Use the same Contrast color to define the edges of Robot by working a chain st (this is the embroidery term, not the crochet term) around entire edge of Robot. Use same Contrast color and chain st to create arms and claws and a V shaped antenna at the top of head. Use the chain st and CC7 to outline the eyes and the rectangular screen on front of Robot. Use CC7 to double satin st the square Pupils onto eyes. I placed the Pupils to the left of each eye, touching the left outline of eye, but not the right, so it looks like the Robot is looking to its right. Use CC7 to embroider a wavy line on screen. Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Horizontal Connecting Bars
Column 1
Note:
Pay close Attention to the layout chart as you work through the following directions.
With CC1 and larger hook, ch 28.
ROW 1: Starting with 2nd ch from hook and working in the bottom of the chain, 1 sc into each of the next 27 sts - 27sts.
ROWS 2-5: Ch1, turn, 1 sc into each st across - 27 sts.
Ch 1, turns as if to work another row (RS is now facing you). Position top edge of the CC4 "Bam" Robot Square [this is the bottom square of the first column] behind work with WS together. When you work across any edge of the RobotSquare, you must work the first and last sts into corner sts (this is the center of the 3 sc sts). Working through both layers at the same time, 1 sl st into each of the 27 sts across, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, work 5 sc sts along side edge of JUST THE CONNECTING BAR, rotate work 90 degrees, clockwise. With WS together, place the bottom edge of the CC3 "James" Robot Square [this is the middle square of the first column] behind work. Working through both layers at the same time (and beginning and ending with the corner sts of Robot Square), 1 sl st into each of the 27 sts across, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, work 5 sc sts along side edge of JUST THE CONNECTING BAR. Fasten Off. Set aside to be worked on after completing 2nd bar.
Repeat Rows 1-5 for next Horizontal Connecting Bar.
Ch 1, turn as if to work another row (RS is facing you), position top edge of the CC3 "James" Robot Square 9this is the middle square of the first column) behind work with WS together. When you work across any edge of the RobotSquare, you must work the first and last sts into corner sts (this is the center of the 3sc sts). Working through both layers at the same time, 1 sl st into each of the 27 sts across, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, work 5 sc sts along side edge of JUST THE CONNECTING BAR, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise. With WS together, place the bottom edge of the CC2 "Beep" Robot Square (this is the top square of the first column) behind work. Working through both layers at the same time (and beginning and ending with the corner sts of Robot Square), 1 sl st into each of the 27 sts across, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, work 5 sc sts along side edge of JUST THE CONNECTING BAR. Fasten off.
Columns 2 - 4
Repeat this process for each of the remaining 3 columns of squares.
Vertical Connecting Bars
Note:
Pay close Attention to the layout chart as you work through the following directions.
With CC1 and larger hook ch 107.
ROW 1: Starting with 2nd ch form hook, and working in the bottom of the chain, 1 sc into each of the next 106 sts - 106 sts.
ROWS 2-5: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc into each sts across - 106 sts. Ch1, turn as if to work another row (RS is now facing you), position the left edge of the Last column [this is the rightmost column] behind working with WS together. When you work across any side edge of the RobotSquare, you must work the first and last sts into corner sts (this is the center of the 3 sc sts-the same st that was the first or last st you worked into when attaching the Horizontal Connecting Bars). Working through both layers at the same time, [1 sl st into each of the 32 sts across Robot Square, work 5 sl sts through Horizontal Bar and Vertical Bar] twice, continuing to work through both layers, 1 sl st into each of the 32 sts across Robot Square, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, make 5 sc sts working into the side edge of JUST THE VERTICAL CONNECTING BAR. With WS together place the right edge of the next column of Robot Squares behind work (see layout diagram). Working through both layers at the same time (and beginning and ending with the corner sts of each Robot Square). [1 sl st into each of the 32 sts across Robot Square, work 5 sl sts through Horizontal Bar and Vertical Bar] twice, continuing to work through both layers, 1 sl st into clockwise, make 5 sc sts working into the side edge of JUST THE VERTICAL CONNECTING BAR. Fasten off.
Repeat this process for each of the remaining 2 columns of squares (beg with column 2). After attaching the last vertical bar (as described above), DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Blanket Edging
rnd 1:
Continuing with CC1, ch 1, 1 scbp into each st of each Robot Square around edge of blanket, making the first and last sts into each Robot Square into each respective “corner” st. When you get to the connecting bars, work 1 sc into each st (do not work around post), sl st in first st to join.
rnds 2–10: Ch 1, 1 sc into each st around edge of blanket. When you get to each of the 4 corners of the blanket, work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] into the corner ch-1 space. On last yo of Rnd 10, change to MC and smaller hook.
next row: Change to smaller hook (to keep edge from stretching out), work 1 rnd of reverse single crochet, sl st to first sc.
Fasten off.
With WS facing and using smaller hook and CC1, work 1 rnd of slip sts into the same sc sts that you just worked into (In other words, you are working into the same sts that you worked into when you made the rnd of reverse single crochet). This helps to reduce the amount of curling that naturally occurs at edge of blanket.   Weave in all ends and block (this will also reduce the curling).

 


 


  Learn to Crochet Instructions:  http://www.lionbrand.com/learnToCrochet.html


Ratings and Reviews
Pattern Average Rating: **1.5 (based on 2 reviews)
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Robo-Blanky Reviewed by Cherri Smith on 2014-08-29 *
I really wanted to make this but after reading thru the pattern I found it very poorly written and as a intermediate or higher crocheter this is far too complicated to decifer. If you could have someone re-write this for the average crocheter I might give it a try, otherwise will not want to give my self a migraine reading the instructions.


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