Pattern reproduced with permission. Copyright 2010 Noreen Crone-Findlay.
This gorgeous spool knit necklace will look great with casual wear or office wear, but is also perfect for an evening out in a little black dress. The Celtic-inspired knot looks very complicated, but is quick and easy to make.
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Vanna's GlamourTM
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Additional Materials Additional Materials:
Cardboard or rigid foam board
Tape
Straight pins
Optional Materials:
Vanna's Glamour in Copper(Art. 861-134) 1 ball
2 pegged knitting spool
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Celtic Interlace Knot Medallion Necklace
Lion Brand® Vanna's GlamourTM
GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not essential to this project.
STITCH EXPLANATION:
For a spool knitting tutorial click here.
This cord is spool knit using 2 pegs of the spool knitter. Click here for a video tutorial on spool knitting with 2 pegs.
NOTES:
1. The necklace is constructed of 2 spool knitted cords. The longer cord becomes the knot and is pinned to a backing board and stitched at the intersections to secure them. The shorter cord is the necklace cord.
2. Print the knot diagram, making sure that it is at least 4 inches (10 cm) wide by 5 inches (12.5 cm) long. Click here for a printable version of the diagram.
3. Necklace is spool knit with two strands held together throughout. This creates a very firm square cord that is flexible but substantial.
NECKLACE Cords With two strands held together and spool knitting on two pegs, knit 18 in. (45 cm) cord. Leave 10 in. (25 cm) of yarn at each end.
Knot Cord
With two strands held together and spool knitting on two pegs, knit 48 in. (120 cm) cord. Leave 20 in. (50 cm) of yarn at each end.
MEDALLION Click here to print the diagram by itself.
Pinning the cords in place Note:The cord is folded in ½ and then is pinned to the backing board, and moves over and under itself. When the lines are broken, it means that the cord passes under the other cord.
Fold the longer cord in ½ and pin the fold at the starting point on the pattern.
Take the right hand cord over the left hand cord and pin at the crossing point.
Follow the pattern with the left hand cord, pinning it when it turns a corner or changes direction to secure it to the pattern.
At the upper right hand corner, it will turn back down and start going over and under itself. Take it over the previous layer where the lines indicate that it is on top, and go under the previous layer when the lines indicate it weaves under. Place a pin at every intersection to secure it.
The cord will end at 'X' in the point just above the starting loop.
Follow the path of the pattern with the right hand cord, taking it over and under the first cord. Pin at all crossing points to secure.
The second cord also ends at the 'X', just above the loop at the start of the knot.
Stitching the crossing points Thread one strand of yarn into the craft needle and stitch the ends of the cord to the loop at the bottom of the knot.
Stitch through each intersection several times to secure it. Weave the needle in and out of the cord to get to the next intersection. Stitch at the 2 points marked '*' to secure the inner loops to the outer edges of the knot.
You can remove the pin from an intersection while you are stitching it, but put the pin back in to hold everything in place until the knot is completely stitched.
When all intersections are stitched, remove the pins. Nudge each intersection with your finger, just to make sure that it is stitched.
Weave in ends.
FINISHING Take the end of the necklace cord through one of the upper loops of the medallion. Fold it over about 1 inch (2.5 cm)
Thread the ends of the yarn tail into a craft needle and stitch through the cord,
Wrap the tail yarn around the end of the cord, securing it to the necklace cord. Stitch through the cord several times to secure it. Weave in ends.
Repeat finishing with the other end and opposite upper loop.
Celtic Interlace Knot Medallion Necklace Reviewed by Jan Winiarski on 2010-05-07
What a pretty piece! This was quick and easy to do. The most difficult part was the stitching to secure the pattern. Creating the knot was merely a matter of weaving the chord over and under, shaping it according to the given pattern. I actually had to unravel about 6" from one end, and 7" from the other to make the ends flush with the start loop. Since differing yarns or chords stretch differently, and stitch tension varies, I suggest keeping to the original lengths given in the pattern. It is easier to unravel a few inches than it is to find there is insufficient length to finish the pattern. A fun and attractive accessory! Thank you!
