Lion Brand^® LB Collection^® Silk Mohair

GAUGE:

17 sts and 17 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st, after blocking.

BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

NOTES:

Here are some tips for working with this little beauty: Though most yarn of this type is put up in pull balls or skeins, take time to roll it into balls. Place the wound ball inside a small ziplock bag and “zip” all but an inch of the top so the yarn can feed through freely. This keeps the yarn clean and tangle-free and works especially well if you’re working with multiple strands of yarn (either double strands of silk/mohair or silk/mohair plus another yarn). To deal with a mistake that is difficult to rip back, or if your work has fallen off your needles, place the entire piece along with the working yarn in a large ziplock bag, then place it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so until the fibers firm up but not so long that ice crystals form. The cold fiber will be easier to detangle or replace on the needles. Use a lifeline if you are concerned about the stitches slipping off the needles. Periodically (say, at the end of each pattern repeat) draw a tapestry needle threaded with a strand of thin smooth yarn or dental floss through the stitches on the needle. On the next row, take care not catch the lifeline into the knitting. If you do make a mistake, simply ravel to the lifeline. If you use a set of interchangeable needles, thread dental floss into the hole at the base of the needle and knit a row as usual—the lifeline will be added as you knit.

 

Shrug
Using the invisible method and substituting a second cir needle for the waste yarn, CO 82 sts. [Editor's Note: "Invisible method" is another term for the provisional cast on. Click here to find out more about this technique.] Work even in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows) until piece measures 52½" (133.5 cm) from CO. Cut yarn, leaving a 60" (152.5 cm) tail to use for grafting later. Leave sts on needle.

Finishing
With cir needles in place as holders at each end of piece, wetblock piece to 19¼" (49 cm) wide and 52½" (133.5 cm) long, using blocking wires on long edges if desired. Allow to air-dry thoroughly.

Tucks
For the first set of tucks, find the centerline of the St st rectangle— 41 sts on each side of center. Mark a series of tucks along this centerline as foll: Beg at end with the last row of sts worked, measure down 3¾" (9.5 cm) from the cir needle holder and place a removable marker (m) directly in the fabric, [then measure down 7½" (19 cm) directly below the previous m and place a removable m in the fabric] 6 times—7 markers along centerline; the top and bottom m are each 3¾" (9.5 cm) from the end of the fabric.

For the second and third sets of tucks, count in 10 sts from the selvedge along each long side. Mark a series of tucks along the line at each side, 10 sts from the selvedge, as foll: Beg at end with the last row of sts worked, measure down 7½" (19 cm) from the cir needle holder and place a removable m directly in the fabric, [then measure down 7½" (19 cm) from previous m and place a removable m in the fabric] 6 times—14 side markers total; 7 markers at each side placed 10 sts in from the edge; the bottom m at each side is just above the needle holding the provisional CO sts.

To sew the center tucks, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to the WS at a marked centerline position. With RS of fabric facing you, bring the needle up through the fabric from WS to RS 7 sts to the left of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 7 sts to the left of the marked position, then through the st at the marker, then through the st that is 7 sts to the right of the marked position—3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Pull strand to draw the 3 sts tog, then sew through all 3 sts again 8 to 10 times using an overhand st. Fasten yarn invisibly on WS under the tuck. Work a center tuck at each of the rem 6 marked centerline positions.

To sew the side tucks along the right-hand edge of the fabric, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to the WS at a marked position. With RS of fabric facing you, bring the needle up through the fabric from WS to RS 10 sts to the left of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 10 sts to the left of the marked position, then through the st at the marker, then through the selvedge st that is 10 sts to the right of the marked position—3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Finish as for center tuck. Work a tuck at each of the rem 6 marked positions along the right-hand edge of the fabric.

To sew the side tucks along the left-hand edge of the fabric, thread a length of yarn on a tapestry needle and anchor it securely to the WS at a marked position. With RS of fabric facing you, bring the needle up through the fabric from WS to RS 10 sts to the right of the marked position. Skim the needle through the st that is 10 sts to the right of the marked position, then through the st at the marker, then through the selvedge st that is 10 sts to the left of the marked position—3 sts caught on the tucking strand. Finish as for center tuck. Work a tuck at each of the rem 6 marked positions along the left-hand edge of the fabric.

Join short ends
Hold cir needles parallel with WS touching and RS facing out, being careful not to twist piece. Use the Kitchener st for St st to graft the live sts at the ends tog. [Editor's Note: Click here to learn more about Kitchener stitch.]

Back Seam
Lay piece flat with selvedges running horizontally across the top and bottom and the Kitchener join positioned vertically in the center of the side facing you. Measure out 4½" (11.5 cm) on each side of the join along the top edges and pin both layers tog at these points. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use the mattress st to sew the two layers tog between the marked points. [Editor's Note: Click here to learn more about mattress stitch.] There will be about 8½" (21.5 cm) left unsewn at each side of the top edge; these unsewn sections form the armholes.

Weave in loose ends.

  Learn to Knit instructions:  http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com