BACK
Cast on 93 (97, 103, 107) sts.
Foundation Row (RS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * end.
Next Row: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Begin Pleat pattern
Row 1 (RS): P2 (3, 5, 6), (k1, p11) 3 times, k1, p15 (17,19, 21), (k1, p11) 3 times, k1, p2 (3, 5, 6).
Row 2: K2 (3, 5, 6), (p1, k11) 3 times, p1, k15 (17, 19, 21), (p1, k11) 3 times, p1, k2 (3, 5, 6).
Rep rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 in. (7.5 cm) from beg, ending with a WS row.
Place markers in 15th (16th, 17th, 18th) and 78th (81st, 86th, 89th) st.
Next Row (Dec row, RS): P to first marked (pleat) st, k marked st, p2tog, work in pattern as established to 2 sts before second marked st, p2tog, k marked st, p to end.
Continue in pattern as established, rep Dec row every 6th row 10 (10, 11, 11) more times – 71 (75, 79, 83) sts, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 in. (20.5 cm) from beg, work all sts except marked pleat sts in Rev St st.
When all Dec rows have been completed, work all sts evenly in Rev St st until piece measures 19 1/2 (20, 20, 20) in. (49.5 (51, 51, 51) cm) from beg, end with a WS row. **
Shape Armhole
Bind off 3 (4, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 65 (67, 69, 71) sts.
Dec 1 st each at each edge every RS row 3 times – 59 (61, 63, 65) sts.
Work even until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 8) in. (16.5 (18, 19, 20.5) cm), end with a WS row.
Shape Back Neck
Next row: P12 (12, 12, 14), slip rem 47 (49, 51, 51) sts to a holder.
Continue on 12 (12, 12, 14) sts for right shoulder as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 1 st, k to end – 11 (11, 11, 13) sts.
Row 2: Bind off 5 (5, 5, 6) sts, p to end – 6 (6, 6, 7) sts.
Row 3: Bind off 1 st, k to end – 5 (5, 5, 6) sts.
Bind off rem 5 (5, 5, 6) sts.
Place 47 (49, 51, 51) sts from holder back onto needle, join yarn ready to work a RS row and continue on these sts as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 36 (38, 40, 38) sts, p to end – 11 (11, 11, 13) sts.
Row 2: Bind off 5 (5, 5, 6) sts, k to end – 6 (6, 6, 7) sts.
Row 3: Bind off 1 st, p to end – 5 (5, 5, 6) sts.
Bind off rem sts.
FRONT
Cast on and work same as Back to **, ending with a WS row.
Shape armhole and divide fronts:
Next row (RS): Bind off 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, p18 (18, 18, 20), place a marker on needle, join a 2nd ball of yarn, and p to end of row.
Next row: Bind off 3 (4, 5, 6) sts, working both sides at once with separate strands of yarn, k to end.
Cont to work each side separately in Rev St st, AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 3 times – 15 (15, 15, 17) sts for left front and 44 (46, 48, 48) sts for right front.
Work even until armholes measure 4 (4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2) in. (10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm), end with a WS row.
Shape Neck
Next row (RS) P across left front sts, bind off 31 (33, 35, 33) sts at beg of right front, p to end.
Next row: K across sts of right front, bind off 2 sts at beg of left front neck edge, work to end of row – 13 (13, 13, 15) sts each side.
Cont to work in Rev St st, dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 3 times – 10 (10, 10, 12) sts each side.
Work even until same length as Back to shoulder, end with a WS row.
Bind off 5 (5, 5, 6) sts at each shoulder edge twice.
SLEEVES (make 2)
Cast on 75 (77, 79, 83) sts.
Foundation Row (RS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * end.
Next Row: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Beg Pleat Pattern
Row 1 (RS): P14 (15, 16, 17), k1, p11, k1, p21 (21, 21, 23) k1, p11, k1, p14 (15, 16, 17).
Row 2: K14 (15, 16, 17), p1, k11, p1, k21 (21, 21, 23) p1, k11, p1, k14 (15, 16, 17).
Place markers in (15th (16th, 17th, 18th) and 60th (61st, 62nd, 65th) st.
Next Row (Dec row, RS): P to first marked (pleat) st, k marked st, p2tog, work in pattern as established to 2 sts before second marked st, p2tog, k marked st, p to end.
Continue in pattern as established, working Dec row every 4th row 13 more times – 47 (49, 51, 55) sts, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 in. (20.5 cm) from beg, work all sts except marked pleat sts in Rev St st.
When all Dec rows have been completed, work even until piece measures 14 in. (35.5 cm) from beg, end with a WS row.
Shape Cap
Beg working all sts in Rev St st and bind off 3 (4, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 41 (41, 41, 43) sts.
Dec 1 st at each edge every RS row 3 (3, 4, 5) times – 35 (35, 33, 33) sts.
Dec 1 st at each edge every 4th row 5 (6, 6, 6) times – 25 (23, 21, 21) sts.
Bind off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows – 13 (11, 9, 9) sts.
Bind off rem sts.
FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams.
Neck Pleats and Placket
Fold 2 1/2 in. (1.3 cm) pleats into neck edge of right front. Pin pleats in place.
Rep to make 3 pleats across back neck.
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st at lower right edge of front slit. Sc evenly around neck edge to bottom left edge of slit, working through all layers of pleats, and working 3 sc in each corner.
Next Rnd: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each sc around, working 3 dc in center st at each corner.
Fasten off.
Lap right front placket over left and sew in place.
Sew 5 buttons along left front placket - the dc on right placket serve as buttonholes.
Sleeve Pleats
On lower edge of Sleeve, form two 2 in. (5 cm) pleats by bringing tog the 4 pleat sts (knit sts of Row 1).
Seam pleat from lower edge to about 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) above lower edge of sleeve.
Rep on other Sleeve.
Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams.
Weave in ends. |