Wisteria Shawl Collar Pullover Knit-Along: Working the Back and Armholes

Knit-Along BadgeWelcome back to the Wisteria KAL! I hope your swatching efforts went well and you are ready to get started on this sweater! As I've mentioned before, this pullover is worked in pieces and it starts with the back. Start the back by casting on the indicated number of stitches, then work in 2x2 ribbing (K2, P2) for 3 inches. Next, continue in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) for 14 inches, or until your desired length to the underarms. Make a note of the length you decide to work because it will be important when it comes time for the front. Time to shape the armholes!
Back

Armholes are generally shaped with a large decrease worked by binding off stitches on each side, then working decreases for a number of rows for shaping. Depending on the size you are making, you will bind off 5 or 6 stitches at the beginning of each row; this is because you can only bind off at the beginning or in the middle of a row, but not at the end of a row. To follow this instruction, begin your row by knitting 2 stitches, then pass the first stitch on the right-hand needle over the second and off the needle. This is the same way you would normally bind off when finishing a project, but only do this process 5 (6) times. After binding off the indicated number of stitches, knit across the rest of the row. Repeat this process at the beginning of the next row as well. For more information about how to work a bind off, click here. The result is that you have 10 (12) fewer stitches and a notch at each side of your sweater for the underarms.

Following the bind off rows are a series of decrease rows. The decreases, as described in the pattern, are worked one stitch in from edge, making seaming easier because the edge stitch is worked normally. Two different kinds of decreases are used because each of these decreases has a slant or lean to it; using them on their appropriate sides creates nicely shaped armholes. A k2tog (knit 2 together - right slanting) is used for the left side and an ssk (slip, slip, knit - left slanting) is used on the right side of the sweater. You can see more about how to work these decreases here. Once you have worked the decrease row on the knit side, follow it with a purl row and repeat the indicated number of times for your size.

Once these decreases are finished, you're home free! Just "work even" until you have reached the indicated length, creating the depth of the armhole. "Work even" means go back to working in stockinette stitch with no decreasing, as you did for most of the back. Done! Bind that piece off and admire your work - one piece down!
Finished back

Once you have completed the back, feel free to start on the front; it starts the same as the back, but the neck shaping starts 2.5 inches before the armholes. If you are working as written, this means the neck shaping will start at about 11.5 inches, but if you worked the back for 16 inches for example, you would work the front to 13.5 inches. We'll pick up there next week by continuing the front with both neck and armhole shaping!

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  • Amy

    I'm really happy with my sweater..I was wondering if I should bind off purlwise on the second row or do you mean to knit on the second row as well? 

    Thank you for the post:-)

    Amy

  • Mowelborn4

    Kendra,
    The photo of your sweater doesn't seem to have "curled" sides like mine does. Should I have " slipped the first stitch"?

  • Kelly Halley

    I gotta tell ya, I'm loving this "Amazing" yarn!!  The colors are so pretty.  It's the only thing that's keeping me knitting.  Too much stockinette bores me crazy without interesting color.  I save the solid colors for more interesting stitches.  I've been showing the girls at work my progress, thus far, and everyone loves the colors.  I think I'll be going to this yarn, in different colorways, later on.  Yay!!

  • Susan Koutnik

     I am ahead of the game on this one. Last time I had to wait for my yarn. I have finished the back and front and am working on both sleeves at the same time.  I have posted pics on the customer gallery. Here is the link. Oct 2011 KAL Wisteria Shawl Collar Pullover. I wish the color showed better in the pictures. It is so pretty.

  • Susan Koutnik

    Just about had a panic attack. Please go back and read your final paragraph regarding beginning the front piece. The blog says...

    " it starts the same as the back, but it is 2.5 inches shorter than the back to the armholes. If you are working as written, this means to about 11.5 inches," ...

    I think it should say the neck shaping begins 2.5 inches before the arm shaping. The arm holes actually start 2.5 inches beyond that which takes it right to the same measurement as the back. Am I right? I was really worried for a bit there and went back to reread the pattern.

  • http://profiles.google.com/wzrdreams Grace Jones

    I finally cast on last night after much swatching. My 3rd swatch on sz 9s gave me the correct gauge, but the fabric is very loose and open. I took the swatches to my knit group and they all liked the one on sz 8s better ( I agree) so I'm going with those. The gauge is slightly tighter, but the fabric is more stable and I've chosen a size with plenty of positive ease. Can anyone comment on the density/stability of their gauge swatch? 

  • Deborah Outland

    I'm a bit unclear on the length before the armholes...  I thought that the entire lenght of the sweater (including the 3 inch ribbing) was 14 inches (by the pattern).  Is this not correct?  If I want the "standard length", should the piece measure in total 14 or 17 inches before starting the armholes?  I'm still thinking 14, but please clarify!

    I've opted to do some shaping (for size considerations) in the body of the sweater.  Do you reccomend that I do the decreases/increases one stitch before the edge, like for the armhole shaping?

    Finally, an observation--I'm using Cotton-Ease for this sweater, and I was a bit leery when I first got it--I had a fantasy it would be more like a wool or wool blend in its stretchiness, but it really "felt" like cotton.  But when I started knitting with it, it has a much more forgiving texture than pure cotton!  I'm really enjoying knitting with it!  I hope it wears as nice as it knits!

  • Yesika

    I am pretty new to knitting and this is my first sweater...im loving the basic pattern...I have one question though...
    I am just finishing up my ribbing and I am not sure which side is right side or wrong side...is that up to me and what is the difference??

  • Paul Haskins

    Well I got the first sweater finished using using Wool Ease and 100% machine knitting.  I ended up with a 36 inch sweater using the 38 inch pattern .......... Hmmmmmm.  Since my machine is limited to 114 needles, the collar done on the machine was no fun and is very hard to explain in words causing my machine pattern to be delayed a bit - otherwise finished for all sizes.  Note the left sleeve ...... I think there is some inconsistancy in color and I just noticed the yarn dye lots are not the same - my bad.  Next one will look much better for sure.........

  • Amy

    Hi Kendra,  I'm also finished with the back, but I noticed that it's five or six stitches (rows) longer than it should be.  I think it'll be ok when I wash and block it, though.  My gauge on my swatch came out right after I washed it--six rows to the inch.  So I knitted the piece as six rows to the inch instead of measuring as I went.  Is this okay?

  • Amy

    I was going to say that the stitches across are correct--17 stitches for 4 inches. 

  • Newbery66

    Hi, I just tuned in and was wondering where the sizing chart is, I`d like to join in but don`t know how many stitches to cast on. Many thanks

  • Rstein485

    I am using Lion Brand Amazing. I suppose I should not worry about aligning the stripes of the back to the stripes on the front. I wanted to align the ribbing at least but it seems a lost cause. I'm just committing to whatever the outcome. 

  • LM

    My sister-in-law, sister and I all decided to join the KAL.  I'm looking forward to seeing their finished products as they are both much more experienced knitters than I am.  I purchased the Amazing in Jacob's Ladder.  The colors are beautiful but the feel of the yarn is much scratchier than anticipated.  I'll be looking for tips when it comes to working the collar and seaming the sweater (neither of my strong suits).

  • LM

    Opps, not Jacob's Ladder, Joshua Tree!

  • Jeannebeans

    I just got this info today, but would like to knit along with the group. Is it too late to get on board? Is there a pattern somewhere with size and gauge specs, plus needle and yarns needed?

  • Heidi Newbery

    Can someone direct Jeannebeans and me to the pattern for this so we can get started. Thanks if you can that would be great.

  • Tjcoll

    I'm making my wisteria sweater in Wool Ease and wodered what you meant by "Newcastle".  I knitted the back and adjusted the length from 14" to 16 1/2" and started on the front which I will adjust to 14.  Did I adjust properly or do I have to frog???

  • Shari

     Hi Kendra,  several days ago, Ann N from Florida asked about putting the 38 stitches of the back neck on a stitch holder so she wouldn't have to "pick up" the stitches for the collar. I am ready to bind off the back of my sweater. I cannot find a reply to the question, so I don't know if the stitch holder is a good or bad ideal. Could you please let me know?

  • Vivramirez

    I am basically new to knitting, I am not familiar to "frog", what does that mean?

  • Darlene

    I'm new to knitting and don't fully understand how to add the 2nd ball of yarn for the collar.  Will that be explained in next week's blog?  Thanks!
    PS.  I'm enjoying this project so far, and I really appreciate the comment posts about doing the sleeves at the same time.

  • karen

    I am almost finished with the back, only a few more rows to go, does it matter if I bind off on a knit row or purl row? Another question I have is about matching the stripes once I start the front. I'm using Lion Brand Amazing in Ruby. I started the back after finishing my swatch for the gauge, (not at the beginnng of a ball of yarn) do I start the front with a new ball of yarn or should I try to find the color variation to match the ribbing on the back ?

  • Shari

    Thank you for answering my question. The need for stability makes sense, I will bind off right now and be on to the front of my beautiful "Strawberry Fields" sweater.

  • http://mygardenblue.wordpress.com/2011/10/08/today-i-knit/ Today, I knit « the many facets of donna

    [...] I’ve been knitting.  I am participating in the Lion Brand Blog’s Knit-a-long (KAL)  We (people from across the globe) are making a sweater together with the help of an [...]

  • http://profiles.google.com/wzrdreams Grace Jones

    I'm into my second skein of Amazing now. I was tempted to try to force the colors to be similar at the join, but quickly saw that this is unnecesaary due to the random striping in the yarn. It's very freeing to not have to worry about stripe matching.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_BDEKCLEMRYLMWQUQUHPFEKSAGU D

    I could not find enough yarn of the same color in the store so I just bought 1 ball and ordered the rest.  I was going to buy the Ruby in Amazing but decided on Aurora based on what the balls looked like in the store.  Too bad Lion Brand does not post swatches or likes to an item made with each color on the multi colored yarn as the description and final colors are frequently hard to tell.  I think the yarn is due to arrive today or tomorrow.

    I made the swatch and with washing it did change size and now matches the gage.  I had never heard that before.  
    I really like the feel of the yarn and like the colors will look interesting.  I had planned on doing it in the round but after reading Kendra's comment on the colors decided to do 1 piece at a time except for the sleeves.  I think I am going to make it a little longer, but not as long as the longest. 

    So I need to catch up to the rest of you

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1570892527 Kimberly McKenna Junkins

    After reading so many comments from people using the Amazing yarn I really wish I'd used it. I'm hoping my sweater comes out as good as I think it will, then maybe I'll splurge. I was nervous spending that much, more than I'd pay for a sweater already made (lol), and not knowing if it would come out okay. I've knit baby sweaters but never one for myself. Excited about this project, so far so good!

  • Rstein485

    I knitted my back to 16". When I knit the front how far should I go before I start the neck shaping. 

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  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=68400544 Heather Griffin

    I'm almost done the armhole shaping on the back and I'm loving the Amazing yarn.  It is knitting up really quick too, I've never made so much progress on a sweater in so little time (I just started last weekend).  I'm actually using a different pattern from the LionBrand site (Shapely Stripes) since the sizing works better for my tiny mother, but I'm adding a few inches to the bottom since she likes her sweaters long.  I was a little disappointed that I won't get to do the shawl collar, but I'm enjoying following along and hearing everyone's tips and tricks to making these.  Since I got the yarn when it was on a great sale at Joann's I picked up extra in 2 different colorways so I could make another sweater for myself as well as an entrelac scarf when I'm done.  So glad I bought the extra because I love this yarn and it would be too sad to have to give it all away.

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