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Textured Circle Shrug Knit-Along: Casting On and Working the Yoke

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Textured Circle Shrug Knit-Along: Casting On and Working the Yoke

In this week’s post, we will cast on and work through the YOKE of the shrug.  The yoke of the sweater is the part that contains the cast on edge, the beginnings of the sleeves, and the top part of the body.

Now that you’ve found the perfect yarn, the correctly-sized needles, made your swatch, checked your gauge, and breathed a sigh of relief…LET’S CAST ON!

Gather up your yarn, needles, two stitch markers, and cast on 60 (60, 60, 68, 68, 68) stitches.  (I’m making the 3rd size.)

  • Tip: Even though I’ve been knitting for a number of years, I went through my copy of the pattern and circled the direction numbers and all stitch counts for my size.  This really makes the pattern a lot easier for my eye to follow, especially on a black and white print out.

Do not join to work in the round. Even though we are using circular needles, because the shrug is left open at the front, we work back and forth.

  • We use circular needles because we shape the sleeves and shoulders as we go, so we have to navigate some curves.  It might be possible to knit this shrug on straight needles, but I haven’t tried!

RAGLAN SET-UP ROW (WS):This is the portion of the pattern in which we place our markers and set up the placement of the raglan increases.

The instructions say to begin working in stocking stitch or stockinette (which looks knit on the RS of the fabric.) Because row 1 is a WS row, we need to purl.  So, purl along, placing markers as indicated in the instructions. (pm = “place marker”)

RAGLAN INC ROW (RS): [KFB, work to 1 st before marker, KFB] twice, work to last st, KFB — 66 (66, 66, 74, 74, 74) sts.

Written in this shorthand notation, these instructions may confuse the beginner knitter.  Written in longhand, they would look like this:

  • Knit into the front and back of the first stitch on the needle, work to one stitch before the marker, knit into the front and back of the next stitch, pass marker from left hand needle to right hand needle, knit into the front and back of the next stitch, work to one stitch stitch before the marker, knit into the front and back of the next stitch, pass marker from left hand needle to right hand needle, knit into the front and back of the next stitch, knit to the last stitch, knit into the front and back of the last stitch.

In other words (because even written out longhand, it’s a lot!): Increase in the first stitch, increase one stitch on each side of every marker, and increase in the last stitch. (Increases 6 sts.)

NOTE: KFB = knit into both the front leg and the back leg of the next stitch on the needle.  This increases one stitch.  Here’s a video at showing how to KFB (continental) (English).

Work this whole section (13 rows) in stocking stitch, so that all of the RS rows are knit, and all of the WS rows are purled.

  • Each increase row adds 6 stitches.
  • At the end of this section, you should have 96(96, 96, 104, 104, 104) sts.

Here’s what my knitting looks like after finishing this section:

Here’s a closeup of how the raglan increases look:

NEXT ROW (RS): Begin textured stripe stitch pattern, and at the same time, continue working your raglan increases until you have 180(204, 228, 242, 266, 290) sts.

  • THIS is the point at which you begin working in the textured stripe pattern.  The first 5 rows will look purled on the RS, and the next 8 rows will look knit on the RS.  Then, just repeat this pattern.
  • NOTE: While working in reverse stocking stitch, work your raglan increases as PFB (purl into the front and back of stitch) so that they look purled on the RS (this just adds continuity to the look of the purl sections.) Here’s a video on showing how to PFB (continental) (English).

Here’s what my shrug looks like (on the needles) at the end of this section:

When you break the yarn at the end of the last row, be sure to leave a tail.  Any time in knitting when you cut or break a working yarn, you MUST leave a tail so that that end can either be tied off and woven in, or attached to a new length of yarn and worked later.

TIP: At this point, I suggest that you thread a darning needle with a long length of waste yarn and place the whole shrug onto the waste yarn.  You can now try on your shrug and make sure it fits you properly.

  • If it’s too small, work a few extra rows, continuing your raglan increases every-other row.
  • If it’s too big, just rip back a few rows until it fits.

This may sound like a lot of extra work, but it’s so much better to take the time to check fit now than it is to find it doesn’t fit later!

Here’s what my shrug looks like on a length of waste yarn:

You an see that we’ve formed (from L to R) the cap of the left sleeve, the back of the shrug, and the cap of the right sleeve.

To see if your shrug fits, try it on, matching the points indicated with arrows in the photo above at the under arm.

Next week, we will separate the sleeves and continue to form the back of the shrug.

Related links:

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  • Thank you so much for your excellent step-by-step instructions and all the pictures!

  • The photos of how the shrug should fit over your arms was a huge help in understanding! Thanks so much!

  • Wow. Stefanie, you have done a fabulous job of explaining the elements in creating the yoke. I’m an experienced knitter with a good grasp of the abbreviations, but you’ve helped me a lot by describing the details. And the photos are a big help, too. I like the idea of putting the project on a strand of waste yarn to test out the fit. If someone is using a long-cabled circular needle, they may not need to remove the work from the needle. Thanks so much for the detailed assistance!

  • I am really enjoying your blogs with the pictures of how the shrug should look at each stage. I have never done a shrug before and reading through this one has given me the confidence to get started and know I will be able to tell if it fits.

  • Man, I love that color! I may have to make 2…. 🙂

  • Thank you all for your kind comments! I’m so glad that you’re enjoying working on your shrugs!!

  • The video links are great even for those of us more experienced. I like to see how others do these things. 🙂

  • I had asked this question last week, but did not receive an answer. I need the answers before I can commit to the KAL:

    Two questions–
    1. Will it be possible to add a button-hole? I have a very pretty button that I’d like to highlight.
    2. Will you be explaining how to make the sleeves a bit less tight-fitting?

  • Miriam,

    Yes, in order to add a button hole, you will have to extend the ribbing around the neckline so that it meets in front. I didn’t design the pattern to do so, but it would be very easy. You’ll need to keep that in mind when we get to the ribbing portion of the pattern.

    And, yes, several people have already asked about sleeve measurement (which is probably why you didn’t receive an individual reply) and I do plan to discuss how to modify this.

    If you are wavering as to whether to participate, you can just wait until we cover that and see if the discussion meets your needs.

  • Stefanie, Thanks for the detailed instructions. I am really enjoying this KAL. I began working on the shrug last night after making sure that my gauge was right. I am just about to start the textured striping area and will be looking at the instructions you gave for pfb. I have done kfb many many times (in your designs :))but not pfb. I can’t wait to finish this and work with all the other knitters out there.

  • Even though I am an experienced knitter (not expert)the video was a good addition – it helps knowing that I was doing something right for the kfb. I look forward to the pfb since that one causes me more problems. I agree with Karyn, the detailed instructions are a huge help. Much easier than the given instructions for remembering what you need to do. My sister is going to be getting the shrug and can hardly wait!

  • […] Well, the next installment of the Lion Brand Notebook Knitalong that I’m leading has been posted: Textured Circle Shrug Knit-Along: Casting On and Working the Yoke. […]

  • Thanks Stefanie, for sharing this pattern! It’s coming along very quickly (I actually am already past the point of splitting off the sleeves, and am almost finished with the back) and it’s so pretty!

    I just wanted to offer one piece of advice as others get to the textured stripe – make sure to keep a good tally of where you are in the pattern, because you’ll be increasing on every other row, but the textured stripe is an odd number, so they don’t correlate! I had to figure out a little shorthand to do for myself as I marked each completed row on my pattern, so I’d know where in the textured stripe pattern I was (I got too into CSI once and had to rip back a row because I did too many reverse stockinette rows!) Hope that make sense!

    Stefanie says: This is very true (you will sometimes start Textured Strip on a RS row, and sometimes on a WS row) which is why it’s easier to read your knitting and work 5 purl-looking rows, then 8 knit-looking rows on the RS than it is to try to write it out row by row.

    You’d actually end up with a 26-row repeat, rather than the 13-row repeat as it’s written.

    Good advice, Kelli.

  • Kudos to linking to I had gotten to the PFB last night, and wasn’t sure how to do it. I automatically go to whenever I have that kind of technical question. They are the best resource!

    So excited to keep going!

  • What sort of cast-on do you recommend? Any video link for a cast-on? Thanks!

    Stefanie says: lots of cast-ons would work…I always do the long tail cast on. You can either do a google search for cast on videos, or just go back to They have videos for almost every knitting technique.

  • I’ve got the yarn and am just now doing a swatch for guage and then I’m off and running. Thanks for doing this Stephanie. It isn’t often thst I get to lesarn from the best!

  • I agree with some of the earlier statements, you are wonderful at explaining the pattern so everyone can understand it. I love this pattern and am also working on your Perwinkle Turtleneck, it would have been nice to have your help on that too but I have managed to figure it out. I love it. I have told anyone that likes to knit about your patterns nd books, unfortunely I had misspelled your name, sorry. Won’t happen again. K.J.

  • Thank you! This is top-notch guidance.

  • Stephanie,

    I am an intermediate+ knitter. I love your patterns and have knitted a few of them. I just couldn’t wait and have already finished the back portion. I am always a little intimidated by picking up stitches, so I will wait until the KAL is there, to see what tips and tricks you have for picking up stitches evenly. Thank you so much for doing this KAL! I already love it.

    My yarn is Conjoined Creations Dancing in color Mashed Potato! (Soy silk) Lovely drape!

  • Thanks Kelli (#15) for your hint. I am still having a bit of a problem…. Now that I’m on the textured pattern area, do I start increasing right away (on row 1 of texture) or do I wait and start on row 2 (every other row)? I don’t want to make a mistake this early in the project!

    The posting of the notebook page to my inbox is a big help as well.

    Stefanie Says: The increases actually should be started on the second row of the shrug. They are worked every single RS row throughout the yoke.

  • […] Vote Lion Brand Notebook […]

  • I have taken up this project after probably 15 year, since I last knitted. I actually went ahead and started the shrug even before you posted the hints. Biggest mistake. I was too eager and made all the mistakes that you mentioned could happen, for e.g. the textured pattern changes… I read it wrong and was just confused. Anyways, now i am waiting each Thursday to read detailed instructions, which are a great help.

    This may be a simple question, but I do need to clarify. Twice in the pattern it stated ‘work one row even’. Am I supposed to work a knit row even or a purl row?

    Stefanie says: you work one row in whatever stitch pattern you are supposed to do. If you are within the first 13 rows, you need to keep your knitting in stocking stitch, so that it looks knit on the RS of the fabric. If you are in the later part of the yoke and should be working in Textured Stripe, you need to work a row according to the stitch pattern.

  • In response to Anne (#20), you will work the increase stitches on the right side of the piece, so yes, you would start with the first row of the textured stripe.

    And to Surinder (#22), working one row even means you will not increase any stitches, but you’ll knit or purl depending on which section your in. When you’re knitting stockinette stitch (so knit side is on right side), you will purl the “work even” row. If you’re knitting reverse stockinette (so purl side is on right side), you will knit the “work even” row.

    Hope that helps!

    Stefanie says: Thank you Ann B, for stepping up and answering questions! This is just what I love about KALs…the more experienced helping the novice! 🙂

  • All I can say is: Thank you, Stefanie! Your blog post has been so helpful. In fact, I now plan to pace my shrug with your blog posts, I have a feeling you will probably answer any questions I have before I even ask them. Thanks again!

    Stefanie says: You are welcome! I’m glad that things are making sense and that the photos are helpful to you. I’ve also added them to the flickr group for this blog, so that they can be enlarged and examined more closely.

  • I am an intermediate knitter, but never had to make a raglan before. I tried it on my own first and thankfully it looks just like the photos! I hope that you continue to use as many photos as possible like you did with this one – it’s such a stress buster – Thank you! I look forward to next week!

  • Thanks so much for sharing this pattern and the hints! I’ve been addicted to knitting this since I got it on my needles. This will be my first venture into non-rectangular knitting, but with the posting and going to my local yarn store for help, I think it’s coming along well. I’ll have to check it for fit like you recommended. It’s working so quickly, I’ll have to make one in a different color! I wound up going with the Kelly Green in Vanna’s Choice and have had lots of compliments on the color choice.

    Thanks again!

  • I”m having fun with this project, and it’s also enjoyable to be able to come here and hear about others who are knitting it. The pictures really help and I printed them out so I can have them in my knitting basket.

  • Thank you Ann B! Now I’ll get back to work for a little while (actually I have to get ready to go to my real job, library director for historical society, darn).

  • This is my first KAL and the first time I’ve used one of your patterns, but so far I am loving it! It is also the first time that my gauge actually matches the gauge given(I usually have to go with smaller needles). I chose Caron Country, a microdenier acrylic/merino wool blend in Deep Purple and it is gorgeous! I will probably try this project again with a different yarn. I’ve so wanted to try a top-down pattern for ages. I think this is the perfect way to do it.

    I also appreciate the pictures, they are very helpful.

    Question: Can I do the sleeves in the round from the armpit down? I hate seaming! If so do I just start that when it says to separate for sleeves?

    Thank you for such a great pattern and all the help on the blog.

  • I am new and I am not sure how to “break the yarn”. How do you keep your knitting from becoming unraveled?

  • I am so excited!!! I have almost finished the yoke and am very glad I read the tip about trying it on before separating the sleeves! I couldn’t afford the organic cotton so I am making mine in Vanna’s Choice eggplant. So far it is great!

  • I am having so much fun with this – KAL is a great idea and motivator. Thanks.

  • I am really enjoying this project. Dropped the baby blanket in progress and jumped on this. I, too, am ready for the arms so can’t wait until next week. I was so happy to see the pics to reassure I was knitting correctly! Thanks so much for taking the time for us!

  • I am on the second textured stripe and it seems to be 2 garter ridges instead of the three of the first stripe. I started this stripe on the wrong side with a purl stitch. Row 6 wants to be a knit stitch on the right side. The picture seems to want it to be a purl row. What am I doing wrong??

    Stefanie says: I think that it would be very helpful for you to try to “read” your knitting as you are working, instead of trying to follow the pattern line by line. You fabric should look like:

    13 stockinette rows
    5 reverse stockinette rows
    8 stockinette rows
    5 reverse stockinette rows
    8 stockinette rows
    5 reverse stockinette rows
    8 stockinette rows
    5 reverse stockinette rows
    8 stockinette rows
    5 reverse stockinette rows
    etc. etc. to the end of the yoke

    (I may have cut and pasted too many repeats here, but you get the picture.)

    If you just work so that your fabric takes on this look, you’ll be in good shape.

  • thanks so much for such a great posting! i have one question, could i possibly knit the shrug all in stocking stitch?(except for the ribbing of course)

    Stefanie says: absolutely! You could knit it in any stitch pattern that you like! Stockinette would be very easy to do, and would look great.

  • I have no problems with anything but the reversed stockinette, I come out with only 3 stripes, and the exact number of stitches, is it every other row on the riht side. I already frogged it twice. Please help

    Stefanie says: I’m having trouble visualizing what exactly the issue is? Do you mean that you only have 3 rows in reverse stockinette? Do you mean that you have fewer stripes as compared to the sample in the photos? If that’s the case, you may just be making a smaller size than I am, in which case, you’d have fewer total rows and possibly fewer stripes. If you can upload a photo to the Flickr Group for this KAL, I can better visualize what is going on with your knitting.

  • i have the book and i have been doing this over and over. but do i increase every other row during the textured stripe and repeat the pattern for textured stripe 14x (14x multilied by 13 row repeat)? Or am i supposed to do an increase row every 14th row? i’ve been doing the math over and over and trying to match it to the pictures in the book and it didn’t seem right. help!!

    Stefanie says: every other row from the start of the yoke to the end of the yoke is an increase row.

  • Stephanie, your instructions are so clear and terrific! I also like the pictures and all your tips and hints. This is my first KAL and loving it. Being too eager, I also made the mistake of going ahead. I’m stuck on the increase round of the body, so I’ll just have to patiently wait until you get to that part. In the meantime, I think I’ll start another one in a different color! For those of you that are having trouble keeping count of the textured stripe and increase rows, I wrote out each row from 1-29 on the back of the pattern and indicated K(knit) or P(purl)and circled the rows that needed the increase. Then I checked off each row as I finished, this way, I never got confused. Can’t wait for next week’s post.

  • Amster (post #37) the increases are worked every other row, and always on the right side, so the wrong side rows are stitched even.

    I finished the yoke per the directions, but the arms aren’t quite wide enough. So I’ve added two more sets of increases. I am so glad Stefanie gave the info about removing the project from the needle to check for size! It would have been so annoying to finish the project only to find it was too tight under the arms!!

  • Another plea for guidance please. My sister wants the entire shrug a little longer (2-4″ I’m guessing) than the photo. Do I make it longer in this section so that the “arm hole” area is looser or do I wait for next week? Logic tells me to do it now by adding in extra increases while we are doing the yoke section but I’m not sure.
    Appreciate any ideas, comments, etc. Anne

  • Anne, if your sister wants the shrug itself to be longer, you could make the back section (worked after separating sleeves) longer by binding off less dramatically or making the whole ribbing edge longer…

  • Ann, I like your idea of making the ribbed edge longer…….although I will look again at binding off at slower rate. Thanks much.

  • I just started my yoke after i did the 1 row even then rep last 2 rows 5 times more- you should have 96 stitches. I can’t figure how you get 96 sts.

  • hi Stephanie, i measured mine according to your instruction and it seems way too small. So i suppose i have to continue doing the 6 sts increase at every alternate rows, which means i will end up having more sts than what the original pattern called for…am i right? Will it gives me any problem at the later stage?

    please help, i am stuck now. thanks so much!

  • Ruby (post #43), you started with 60 stitches when you cast on, then you add six stitches on every right side row for a total of six times, giving you 36 additional 36 stitches (that’s the first increase plus the five repeats). Your first three rows are the setup (placing your markers), your first raglan increase row (RS), and then your first even row (WS). Does that help?

    Summer Knit (#44), be sure to check your gauge to be sure you’re knitting consistently through the textured stripe. I knit tighter on my purl rows than my knit rows, so I did have to add a few increases at the end. Yes, that would give you more stitches when you get to the next step, but this shouldn’t be an issue because you’re adding an even number of stitches. Don’t panic! 😉

  • i see that there are a lot of confusion here with regards to the raglan increase.

    if it can helps anyone, i have a spreadsheet (courtesy of julia401 who so kindly started the spreadsheet) detailing what to do at every row. It is such a breeze without having to worry or count any more. Just PM me if you would like to have a copy.

  • thanks, Ann B!

    the additional increase on sts would it means that i have to pick up more sts on the sleeve?

  • Summer Knit, you would likely end up with more stitches at the center back and yes, you could pick up more stitches along the front of the sleeve – based on the number of rows you have added. Looking at the medium size, there are 49 rows at the end of the pattern as written (before separating the sleeves), and from those 49 rows, there are 62 stitches to pick up from the sleeve for the ribbing. If you add four more rows (increasing 12 stitches), the math works out to picking up 66 or 68 stitches. Hopefully Stefanie will share more on this topic when we get to that section…

  • that’s very helpful, thanks Ann B!

  • Post 46
    Summer knits, I would like to have the spread sheet. Thanks

  • Post 46, Summer Knit, I’d like a spread sheet too. I’m confused.

  • Oh, Pamela (Post #29), you can most definitely do the sleeves in the round! I just finished the first sleeve, and I love not having to seam it!

  • This is my first KAL and I am enjoying it. A general question concerning most or all knitting patterns– When the pattern tells how much yarn is needed for the project, Does this include enough to complete one or two swatches? Thanks!!

  • This chart is based on the Medium size (36 – 38″).
    This chart is split into the first 13 rows and then the textured stripe.
    You can see the row, right or wrong side, increase or even, stockinette or reverse, knit or purl.
    When I finish a row, I put an “tick” into the blank cell and from time to time I might check the stitch number (shown in last column)

    RowSide CO 60
    1 WS R setup St p 60
    2 RS Raglan inc k 66
    3 WS ev p 66
    4 RS inc k 72
    5 WS ev p 72
    6 RS inc k 78
    7 WS ev p 78
    8 RS inc k 84
    9 WS ev p 84
    10 RS inc k 90
    11 WS ev p 90
    12 RS inc k 96
    13 WS ev p 96
    14 RS inc Rev St p102
    15 WS ev k 102
    16 RS inc p 108
    17 WS ev k 108
    18 RS inc p 114
    19 WS ev St p 114
    20 RS inc k 120
    21 WS ev p 120
    22 RS inc k 126
    23 WS ev p 126
    24 RS inc k 132
    25 WS ev p 132
    26 RS inc k 138
    27 WS ev Rev St k 138
    28 RS inc p 144
    29 WS ev k 144
    30 RS inc p 150
    31 WS ev k 150
    32 RS inc St k 156
    33 WS ev p 156
    34 RS inc k 162
    35 WS ev p 162
    36 RS inc k 168
    37 WS ev p 168
    38 RS inc k 174
    39 WS ev p 174
    40 RS inc Rev St p 180
    41 WS ev k 180
    42 RS inc p 186
    43 WS ev k 186
    44 RS inc p 192
    45 WS ev St p 192
    46 RS inc k 198
    47 WS ev p 198
    48 RS inc k 204
    49 WS ev p 204
    Break Yarn

  • Oh im so sorry, i didn’t meant to post it as a raw format! I was trying to see if i can cut and paste the table here and somehow i hit the wrong button. My apologies!

    Ruby(#50) and Kathy(#51), and anyone else who are interested, pls email me ( and I will send you the excel sheet.

    If anyone of you are with Ravelry, this thread is being discusseed by Julia401 (the original creator of this useful chart). Just search under “Lion Brand textured circle shrug KAL group” and you will find a lot more info there.

    I hope this helps.

  • Thanks so much, Summer Knit. I get it now.

  • Thanks so much, Stefanie for the indepth instructions. I am following along but not actually making the shrug right now. I am making the tube top from your ‘Fitted knits’ book currently. Hopefully, I can start this one next.

  • HELP

    How do you “break yarn” and keep your yarn from becoming unraveled??????

  • In the instructions it says to repeat increase row 22 times. Do I disregard that # and just increase to the end of 13 row textured stripe even if that means more than 22 times?

  • Re: Post #58
    Kat, your stitches won’t unravel. When you get to the point where you are finished with the yoke simply cut your working yarn, leaving a 6 – 10″ tail. The live stitches can then either be placed on a stitch holder or waste yarn for later use.

  • Ruth (#59), you will complete the two-row set of increase (RS) and even (WS) keeping with the textured stripe pattern. You will pick up the textured stripe pattern as you continue the sleeves and body, so make note of where you are within that 13-row pattern.

    Before you break the yarn, though, Stefanie has recommended that you transfer the working stitches to waste yarn so you can check the fit.

  • I have almost finished the yoke and I only have 2 textured stripes where the picture has 3. Is this because you are doing a larger size? Also, I only did 12 rows before I started the textured stripe pattern, is this going to be a problem? Thanks

  • I am so bummed! I was going to knit my sleeves in the round too, but was too nervous. Guess I should have checked here for a little encouragement.

    Starting the ribbing… hope I don’t regret going ahead.

  • I am to the ribbing, but I am a beginner. How do I pick up and knit a stitch or section of stitches (whichever question is applicable)?

  • I just found this how to on Lionbrand., so her I go on the ribbing!

  • Thanks Ann B #61
    That clarifies my dilemma. Any suggestions on how to begin knitting the sleeves in the round?

  • Ruth (#66) – I started the first round flat, then joined the last stitch to the first stitch when I got to the end. I think I was stitching from front to back.

    Can y’all believe I left the house today for a two-day business trip and completely forgot my knitting bag at home? Fortunately I did have a “spare project” in the car, so my fingers won’t be idle this evening, but I’m feeling withdrawal for my Cotton-Ease!

  • Well they said “work at your own pace,” so here I go, a bit behind some of you. I finally got my greenish yarn (very happy with the color choice) and did my swatch: the yarn said it would be 4.5 to the inch/18 sts in 4 inch (with size 7) but I came out with 20, so I moved to the size 8 needle and that came out better – why do I feel like I’ve failed when my gauge doesn’t match the yarn specs? I’m working on the yoke and raglan increases, haven’t switched to the stripe pattern yet. It’s going pretty well; my raglan increases look a bit messy and open to me so I’m going to check just to make sure I’m good with the kfb. I love BTW, it’s been a real help to me as I’ve been learning and every new project has new techniques.

  • This is my first KAL and I am really enjoying the unique design. I charted both the back and sleeve on graph paper which makes it very easy to follow the striping pattern. I have started the ribbing portion of the shrug and have a couple of suggestions: short rows rather than binding off at the beginning of each row would make a smoother edge. The next time I make the shrug I will do that. I knitted the sleeves in the round which is quite easy with #16 circular needles and saves sewing the sleeve seams. Just purl 5 rounds and knit 8 rounds for the striping pattern.

  • Shelley, (#68) you are in NO WAY a failure because your gauge doesn’t match the yarn specs! Every person has a different style in their knitting process, and some knit more tightly than others. As for me, I am a loose knitter, so I had to drop to a size 6 needle to match the gauge for the pattern. And definitely work at your own pace. One of the advantages to lagging behind the KAL timeline is you can learn from everyone else’s experiences. Just keep it up! 😉

  • I went ahead and started a sleeve in the round. I just put it on double-point needles like I would for socks. I’m also not a fan of 3/4 length sleeves so I am making them longer, and decreasing a little past the elbow so they still fit relatively snug. So much for following the pattern 🙂 I have a hard time with that. So far I’m loving this project though! Hoping I won’t run out of yarn…

  • Thanks for all of the help. Everytime I go to ask a question, it is already answered here. But now I have another one: I have always been taught to leave a tail and that is also taught here, but my skein of yarn has a knot where the yarn has been joined by the manufacturer without a tail. Do I just knit it as I go along or do I break the yarn and rejoin it with a tail? I don’t want it to come apart obviously. Hope you can understand what I am asking and thanks again for the great instructions

  • I am doing the knit along and as a new knitter I would say I have a HUGE learning curve, but this KAL is GREAT!! To get my gauge correct I needed to use size 4 1/2mm needles (I am using Cotton Ease). Could you please tell me what size needles I should use for the ribbing? The pattern calls for 5mm and 4mm needles -I am using 4.5mm so should I use 3 3/4 mm for the smaller needles?
    Also, I must have counted wrong as I have 14 rows before starting the textured stripe, so I just changed the WS for the RS in the directions Summer Knit graciously put up (thank you) rather than ripping it all out for the third time (sigh). As Ann said she needed to add rows, I assume this won’t be a big problem (I hope)and it will all become clear in the end. Please tell me ASAP if I need to rip it out so I don’t go any further -it’s addicting!

  • […] In my last post, I transferred my whole shrug to a long piece of yarn so that I could show you how the project looks at this stage, and also to show how you could make sure that your shrug fits.  (See last post for photos.) […]

  • Summer Knit (#54), thanks for putting up the sequence of rows… I was kinda stuck and remembered seeing the rows. It was a great help to come back and refer to it!

    Thanks Again 🙂

  • I’m loving this pattern – am not going ahead – instead, I decided to do two, in completely different (stash and ancient) yarns. One is a fisherman’s type – cream with flecks of green and brown and the other is green with tones of gold. Will be interesting to see how they turn out! The cream one is very dense fabric, the green is very light. Will post pic in Ravelry at some point!

  • I just finished the sleeves and I am anxious to start the ribbing. It looks great so far!!

  • I just to tell you how much I appreciate this KAL! I am working on my shrug months later but these tips are invaluable. And I completely agree with trying it on – it is much quicker than ripping out the whole thing when you finish and it doesn’t fit – like I have done twice now. I think I am finally on the right track. When is the next knit-a-long?

    Zontee says: Hi Shanda, the next KAL will be later this fall.

  • […] I’m currently working on Stephanie Japel’s Textured Circle Shrug from Glam Knits, which is available for free from […]

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