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Moderne Jacket Crochet-Along: Choosing a Yarn & Swatching for Gauge

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Moderne Jacket Crochet-Along: Choosing a Yarn & Swatching for Gauge

Welcome to all of you crochet-lovers who have been patiently waiting for your time to crochet together again. I am very excited to host this “adventure in crochet” with all of you! I had such a great time hosting the Cable Luxe Tunic Knit-Along a few months ago, that when I was asked if I wanted to host a crochet-along (CAL) – I couldn’t say “yes” fast enough! As a teacher and designer, I enjoy this camaraderie of our craft, and I know this CAL will be a lot of fun.

I was also thrilled to see which design the majority of you chose –- the Moderne Jacket. This is a great design that I think many of you will enjoy making and adding to your wardrobe. In my case, I am going to make this for my younger daughter, Caroline. My oldest daughter, Lizzie, was the lucky recipient of the knitted “Cable Luxe Tunic” and so I was hoping her sister might like the style of the “Moderne Jacket” – and she does!

OK, so before we go into the yarn I chose for the jacket, make sure you all print off the pattern for the “Moderne Jacket.” You can print this pattern for free until March 23rd! With the pattern in your hands (or yarn basket), let’s talk about what yarns would work well for this project. Actually, this pattern lends itself to a wide choice of yarns. The original pattern calls for a strand of Lion Wool and Lion Cashmere Blend to be worked together. Both of these yarns are worsted weight (category 4) yarns –- but when they are held together in a pattern, they are the same weight as a super bulky weight (category 6) yarn.

So for this pattern you can either work a super bulky yarn (like the beautiful and easy-care Wool-Ease Thick & Quick), or two worsted weight yarns held together (like two strands of Cotton-Ease for a spring jacket or LB Collection Organic Wool that’s perfect for fall), or a heavier worsted and a sport weight together.

I went to my stash of yarn and pulled out a variety of yarns to see how they would work with this pattern. I decided to try a skein of beige Vanna’s Choice (heavy worsted weight) along with topaz Vanna’s Glamour (sport weight). Vanna’s Choice and Vanna’s Glamour are also great, affordable yarns, and in this economy, they are a wonderful budget-friendly option. The results were beautiful as the Vanna’s Glamour gives a subtle shimmer to the fabric. On my tall, blonde daughter – I think this will be one “knockout” of a jacket!

Lucky for me, the size N crochet hook called for in the pattern was the right size and below is a picture of my swatch (note that each “bump” in swatch is 2 stitches):

Now that I know what yarns I will use, I made sure to order enough of each yarn to make the entire jacket. For the 5 sizes of the pattern, you will need approximately 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) yards of each of the yarns you will use. For my jacket (which will be a small) I will need 6 skeins of the Vanna’s Choice and 5 skeins of Vanna’s Glamour. Now it is your turn to pick out a yarn and swatch away! For your swatch, make sure to start with an even # for your chain (I chained 18 to get a nice size swatch). I’m going to get busy on the back of the jacket now, but I’m looking forward to your questions and comments!

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  • This post was very helpful with helping me pick the correct type of yarn. I’m going with two strands of medium worsted weight yarn (chocolate and fushia).

    However i’m still unsure about the sizing, I am a 37” bust so the small is too small and the medium is too big. I like my clothes a little form fitting so I wonder if this jacket has a little room to stretch.

    Heather says: “Hi, Nicole – If you are a 37″ bust, I would make the medium size. This crochet fabric is not as stretchy as knit fabric. The other alternative would be to just decrease the back by a couple of stitches and each side of the front by a stitch or two. Hope this helps you and good luck starting your jacket.”

  • Yes, I was in between sizes too and not sure what ease would work. Thanks for the tip. You’ve given great information about starting, making it really simple for someone who has not done a garment before to begin. Also, you gave reassurance that it’s ok to not have our yarn in hand yet – but to do that all-important swatch!

  • Thanks so much, I had the exact same question as Nicole.

  • Could you help me with color choice? I am really interested in using the color choices posted by dlynch57, in the photos. I really love the colors and would like to get started this week-end along with everyone else. Thanks

    Heather says: “Hi, Donna – The best advice I can give for color choice is to pick out either colors you like or that will go with your wardrobe. Of course, the only real way to see if you like a color or not is to swatch with the colors. I always tell my students that a swatch will tell you everything about how your project will look and what size it will be. Hope this helps!”

  • I can easily make the medium and will use the alternate of Vanna yarns but I am always worried that the arms in the bicep area will be too tight. I have heavy upper arms and always have to adjust my sewing patterns for this. How would I do it here?

    Lisa in TX

    Heather says: “Hi, Lisa – Look at the schematic for the sleeve in the pattern to see the width of the arm. For the medium, the width is 15.5″ at the widest part. If you would like it wider, you may want to start with the # of stitches for a larger size, then just decrease those stitches before the cap shaping.”

  • I love the Vanna’s Choice Yarns. Does anyone have any other color suggestions. (Combos)
    Thanks. I can’t wait to get started. I am so excited to make something other than an Afghan.

    Zontee says: Hi Bari, the great thing about Vanna’s Choice is that all the colors are designed to mix and match! If you’re using two strands of Vanna’s Choice, you can try two shades of a color (say Purple and Dark Purple) for a subtle heathered look or go with totally different colors like Dusty Green and Rose for a lot of contrast and interest. If you’d like to go with Vanna’s Choice in combination with Vanna’s Glamour choose two colors that are going to complement each other. You could go solid with Sapphire in both yarns or, again, go for contrast. If you click on a color on, a pop-up swatch will come up. Open a bunch of swatches up and see which ones go together in the ways that reflect you best!

  • I am a knitter and new to crochet. I have tried to make up a swatch more times than I would like to admit. I understand the sc2tog, that’s easy, what I don’t understand and cannot find in any resources is the phrase “over”, and ch 1 sp (I know it means space but which space, than ch 1. Would you please help me, I am so excited to get started.

    I have crocheted a few things so I am not an total beginner. I have also figured out how to crochet in the round. I just cant seem to work my way through this pattern.
    Love the design and would appreciate any assistance or reference for help.



    Heather says: “Hi, Beth: The “over” in the stitch instructions means wrapping the yarn around the hook as you usually do to create a stitch. The ch1 sp is the stitch created on the prior row when you chained 1 after each sctog. Hope this clarifies the pattern for you!”

  • Why do we have to use two strands together? If we want a light weight jacket, what will happen if we only use one strand? Couldn’t we use a different hook to give us the correct gauge? I’m thinking about using one of Lion’s cotton yarns but I really don’t want the heaviness of holding two strands together.

    Heather says: “Hi, Karen: Two strands of two different color worsted-weight yarns were used in this pattern to get the color effect. You could use a bulky weight yarn single strand to get the same results. In order to get the gauge called for in the pattern a large hook was needed as well as yarn thick enough for that gauge. My best advice would be to swatch and see how your yarn looks at that gauge”

  • Please help me with figuring out yardage needed if I substitute yarn. this is whats in my head, for Lion wool 5 balls @ 158yds = 790 yds total. So now dont I take this 790yds and divide it by the number of yards in the yarn of choice. ie Vannas choice @ 170yds per ball or 4.64 or five balls? Heather said six balls of Vannas choice. Please help me Thank you much

    Heather says: “Hi, Carolee: I figured a “safe” amount of yarn for this jacket would be 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) yards. So, for the smallest I would get 6 of the Vanna’s Choice and 5 of the Vanna’s Glamour.”

  • Question about sizing: I am a small busted, but big hipped girl. My bust size puts me into a medium, but I am actually buying “larges” when I shop for clothes. Plus, I just lost 76lbs over the past year and having a bunch of trouble with the sizes that are out there… it seems they are all over the map!

    Should I start this pattern as a medium to fit my upper body and then add stiches at bottom if necessary to accommodate hips? Do you think this will work? Is the pattern flexible enough?

    Heather says: “Hi, Crystina: Since this jacket starts from the bottom up, I would work the size that best fits at the hips then decrease to the size of bust measurement you would like. You may want to measure a sweater that fits you well to see what size that would be. This pattern is very adaptable since it has the same stitch pattern throughout. Hope this helps you make a jacket that fits you perfectly!”

  • This will be my first CAL. I love the pattern, but would like to make it in a child’s size. How can I adapt to fit my daughter who wears a size 10? Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Heather says: “Hi, Nancy – Although this pattern was not written for a 10 year size, there are many patterns on the Lion Brand website that would be great for her. Try the “pattern finder” where there are now over 2,000 free patterns to choose from!”

  • I have picked out my colors and I am attempting to make my swatch but like Beth I am having difficulty. I also understand the sc2tog but I don’t understand the ch-1 sp.

    Please help! I am not sure that I like my colors and I want to get my swatch done to see if I want to continue with these colors or select something different.

    (My colors are the Vanna’s Choice Linen and Taupe.)

    Heather says: “Hi, Lisa: Please look at the explanation I wrote to Beth above, and hopefully that will clarify those commands. Good luck swatching!”

  • I am using two strands of “I Love This Cotton” I’ve started the back & I don’t understand the NOTE after the decrease row????

    Heather says: “Hi, Kay: The Note says:

    The sc2togs of first pattern row following a shaping row (Dec Row or Inc Row) should be worked in the next 2 sts, these sts may be sc, sc2tog, or a ch-1 sp.

    What this note is saying is that the pattern “shifts” a stitch over on that row. For many of you who are working in a darker or two tone yarn combination, that shift probably won’t be noticeble. For my light color jacket, I worked a single crochet first before the “off pattern” row, then worked in pattern to the end and ended the row with 2 sc. This lined up the patterns. Then on the next dec row, my pattern worked out the same as the beginning. Hope this clears up what the note is saying. I will address this in my next post as well.”

  • ARG!!!! I keep dropping stitches. I’ve reworked the same row for the last hour before i realized i had dropped a stitch in the row BEFORE it.

    Colors: Vanna’s choice linen and purple

  • If you uae two strands throughout the pattern why is it that you need 5 balls of A and 10 of B???
    Or did I miss something as I scanned the instructions? Can you tell I am new at this!!!

    Heather says: “Hi, Mary Jo: The Lion Cashmere Blend has much less yardage than the Lion Wool and that is why it calls for more balls of the Cashmere.”

  • This may seem a dumb question (but it’s late, I’ve just finished knitting an aran cardigan for a friend, and an aran sweater for myself in order for me to start this CAL on time! My brain is fried! LOL).

    Anyhow, if I were to choose to use one strand of the super bulky, or category 6, wool what would be my yardage? Simply half the double strand yardage?

    Thanks :^)

    Heather says: “Good question, Brenda: You will only need 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) yards of the bulky since it is used single strand. If you use a double strand of a thinner yarn, then you will still need the same yardage in each yarn.”

  • Hello Everyone,
    THis is my first CAL – I was going through my emails at work and clicked on this email by accident. God is good!
    About the yarn choices – Caron Simply soft is 100% acrylic – worsted weight Medium #4. Would this work? I like this yarn for 2 reasons – first it is very soft and secondly it is always on sale 2 for $5. Please tell me this will work?

    Heather says: “Hi, Lizzy: Do a swatch with your yarn both single strand and double and see which looks best and gives you the gauge – I’m guessing double strand, but please do a swatch, and then you will know.”

  • This is also my first CAL. I usually knit, but since the jacket is so cute and comes in plus sizes, I’m in! I will be doing my jacket in Vanna’s yarns, as it is more in my budget and I love the colors. Just haven’t decided what color yet. I’m going tomorrow for the yarns. Looking forward to joining all of you.

  • I forgot to ask.. What is the gauge using the two Vanna yarns.

    Heather says: “Hi, Sylvia: I used 1 strand each of Vanna’s Choice and Vanna’s glamour – the first is a heavy worsted and the second is a thinner, sport-weight. When I held these two together, I did get the stitch gauge asked for in the pattern.”

  • Thanks for the info on the type of yarn to get. I will be getting mine tomorrow and making the inportant swatch.

    Thanks again.

  • Hi to all.

    I have a silly question. This is the first time I’m doing a project that actually involves a gauge. I’ve made myself crazy all night trying to get the right gauge using 3 different hook sizes and just realized why my gauge my not be working right. Am I correct to assume that every sc2tog is counted as 2 stitches? I should have sc2tog stitches going across in the 4 inches across?

    I’m using the Cottonease in cactus and hazelnut. I was concern about the combination-loved the color seperately wasn’t too sure about together. Spent an hour at the store-too many colors to choose from. Loved the colors once I started crocheting them together. Lesson- go with your gut feeling, you will probably be right.

    Heather says: “Hi, Anne: You are right about the pattern each sc2tog and then the one ch are 2 stitches – look at the picture of my swatch and you can see how each repeat looks.”

  • I, too, am SO excited about this project. And, I greatly appreciate the input from others about the types and colors of yarns used. I’m on my way to the store now to pick mine up and begin swatching. Thanks.

  • I’m really having trouble getting my swatch right. It doesn’t look anything like Heather’s. How many chains should I do to start? I never have one last chain for the last single crochet. Thanks.

    Heather says: “Hi, Sue: You should start with an even # in your chain. (I chained 18 in my swatch.) Then work the foundation row first before you do the pattern itself. Hope this will help you!”

  • Heather says: “Hi, Beth: The “over” in the stitch instructions means wrapping the yarn around the hook as you usually do to create a stitch. The ch1 sp is the stitch created on the prior row when you chained 1 after each sctog. Hope this clarifies the pattern for you!”

    Now I’m pretty confused. I really read the meaning of ‘over’ in this section of the pattern quite differently. Here’s how it describes the pattern stitch: “ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first st and ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sc2tog over next st and ch-1 sp…”, and I thought that was the part Beth’s question referred to.

    I read this with the meaning of ‘over’ that is synonymous with ‘across’, as in: you make a stitch called sc2tog, which carries across (or over) the 2 listed stitches from the row below. In other words, the sc2tog uses those 2 stitches to ‘go into’.

    The definition of the sc2tog stitch itself in the pattern actually uses both of the words “yarn over” for the meaning you give, so I am confused. Am I completely missing the point? I thought my swatches looked okay, using my understanding of the pattern.

    Thanks for any clarification you can give!

    Heather says: “You are working this correctly, Serena. I was looking at the “over” in the sc2tog instructions, which means to wrap yarn over hook. You are right that the “over” in the stitch explantion means to work into those two stitches. Hope this helps you and it sounds like you are doing this correctly.”

  • I hope to join along with this project, never having done a CAL, but it sounds so neat! As with others, I have many projects on board and one I must finish first (today, hopefully), then will begin my swatch.

    I’ll be picking further through my “stash” (yes, I’m one of those with a closet full) to try and find suitable colors, but I’m currently leaning toward LB Pound of Love antique white double strand, as I like the color for all seasons (I’m in Florida) and I have an adequate supply. Will see if the swatch measures up. What do you think?
    Would like to avoid a trip to the store… my husband would kill me if he see me walking in with more yarn.

    Thanks to ALL for the comments (they helped so much!) and to LB. Venice

  • Serena – thanks for asking your question because in reading your question I finally understood Heather’s answer to me and to Beth. 🙂

    I was feeling like I needed to throw my hands up in the air and go back to making afghan’s and now there is renewed hope!

    Heather – thanks for answering all of us, I really want to make this project work and so far you have been a big help!

    Now I am off to try and make my swatch again……I’m sure there will be more questions soon!

  • Aye, I don’t enjoy a wide variety of Lionbrand cashmere in where I live (and cashmere is probably five times more than that of my lowly teenage budget), so I guess I’ll replace it with cheap acrylic yarn. Will probably knit double strands of worsted weight yarn, once I actually get the yarn and check the gauge.

    I’m really hyped about this though, never found a crochet community, because people my age are too busy with Facebook. Thanks Heather and Lionbrand for hosting this CAL!

  • I am so excited!! I’ve wanted to participate in a CAL for a long time – I love crochet and this project is just what I’ve been looking for. I’m a CAL virgin 🙂

    My question:
    I would like to make this a spring-weight sweater and maybe use cotton? I would prefer to use only one strand of yarn, but would the sweater be too lacy? If I use two strands, which weight yarn and type of yarn would be appropriate? I’ll certainly do a swatch to get the gauge right.

    Thanks for any suggestions!!!

  • Hi everybody! My first CAL also, as well as my first crocheted garment, so I’m excited. I’m using Vanna’s Beige with the Vanna Baby Goldfish! I haven’t done my swatch yet, but the colors seem to look great together. Is there some sort of schedule when we should try to have each part finished? I don’t want to get behind, but I’m sure I will, because I work and have a 7 yo daughter. I usually crochet after everyone else is asleep!

    Heather says: “Hi, Nancy – This is a no-stress CAL! Just work at your pace and enjoy.”

  • I’m interested in what yarns and hook sizes everyone is using….

  • I just had to share this with you all.
    I spent two hours last night, making my swatch and starting on the back.
    I thought it unusual that the “N” hook gave the right gauge because I usually crochet tight.
    After I had crocheted almost 3.5 inches of the back, I held it up and thought “No way! this can’t be right.” It was about 40″ wide! Now I am a big person and making the 1X, but this thing was BIG.
    Not sure what I was measuring when I did my swatch, but I wasn’t using an “N” hook. I was using an “S”. I laughed at myself and took out all my work.
    Today I start again with my swatch and the right hook.

  • Beth……

    I’d hate to be mean, but I definitely laughed out loud when I read your post! Too funny! 🙂

    I’m heading over to Michaels right after work to pick up my yarn. Sadly I wont be able to start on my jacket until hopefully next week. I have to finish my sweater, tote bag, and a scarf that I’m making for my co-worker!

  • Thanks Heather for answering all our questions. I don’t have a ‘stash’ of yarn but for some reason I have 6 skeins of Lion wool in Rose(looks hot pink to me). I live in TX near Houston so I don’t want anything too heavy. What do you suggest my second strand of yarn be. I am going hunting for it at Joann’s tonight and will try to use some coupons!

    I, too, have some other yarn projects going but hope to work this one in real soon. At least the swatch will be done this weekend…goal #1!

  • I noticed another question about the “wrong side”. Is there a designated “wrong side”, such as when you’ve finished the first row, or do you just pick a side and make that the “wrong side”?

    Zontee says: Hi Barbara, as you can seen in the pattern, it tells you when you’re working a “right side” row, which is a row that you’re working while facing the outside or “public” side of the garment. The opposite is a wrong side (WS) row. So when you’re crocheting the back piece, you first chain, then work a RS row for the foundation row as written, work WS/RS/WS/RS (et cetera) until you get 3.5 inches, and end with a row facing the WS. If you need help keeping track of the sides, put a safety pin or stitch marker on your RS row facing you so that whenever you’re facing the RS row, you will see the pin or marker. Hope that helps.

  • To Beth: I know how frustrating that is! It’s taking me a while with my swatch too- I’ve done it twice, and it’s still 1/2″ too big. I’m missing my next size down hook, so if the one two sizes smaller doesn’t work, I’m going to have to go to Wal-Mart tonight. I’m dying to get started!

  • I have a question about sizing. I read your response to Nicole, but it appears I need to incorporate a size even large than the pattern states. I have large upper arms. My upper arm measurement is 1 1/2″ larger than the largest size. My bust measurement is a 1/2″ smaller than the 1x. Which size should I use?

    Heather says: “Hi, Cindy: I would make the largest size and that will give you also more ease in the bust. For the sleeves, you may want to add a few (even number) of stitches to make the sleeves not so tight. Hope this helps.:

  • Heather, thanks for the input on the yardage needed. your right 4.64 is a soild 5 skeins so 6 would be advised. I did get 5 skeins for the glamour. Iam useing Vannas choice Silver Grey and Vannas glamour Platinum. This is going to be so fun.

  • Nicole, Hurry up with those other projects, so you can join us. The sooner the better. (I’m glad I made you laugh.)

    I am finishing up a purse for my daughter, and I always have a few afghans in progress, but I haven’t started anything new since I heard about this CAL.

    Good luck with your swatch Nancy…to be honest, I rarely check my gauge, but I am trying to be a good girl with this one. ;O)

  • This is my first anything-a-long! I’m very excited. I also had Nicole’s question and I am going to make the medium. I am using Vanna’s choice in Seaspray Mist, a lovely verigated green and ivory. I just use two strands of it together and since it is two colors already and it is perfect! I thought it would be lovely for early spring here is cold climates. I made my swatch and N was the perfect hook. I loved the look so much I started on the back. The pattern is so beautiful!

  • I started the jacket using one strand of Patons chunky shetland tweed yarn – it seems to be working fine. It is a category 5 yarn. do you see any problem with this? I’m also having trouble with gauge – it worked fine in my swatch but the first few rows of the back piece came out measuring way too long – so I did it again using the #s for size large rather than 1X – Why would this have happened if my gauge piece came out fine?

    Heather says: “Hi, Fay: Glad you checked your gauge again as you were working the piece. I don’t have an answer for the difference, but it is always best to check your piece as you are going along as you did.”

  • This is my first CAL, I’m hoping for acountability so I will finish a project. (lol) Anyone else have trouble finishing a project?

  • I have done my swatch and am please with the turnout. I started last night. I am working with Lion Wool in cocoa and have teamed it with Vanna’s Choice in Charcoal Grey. It looks a lot like the picture. If you are looking for something to go with the wool that is less expensive this seems to work great.

  • Hi Heather,

    I was calculating yardage as Carolee and I am not sure how you can up with your yard conversion. Could you give some further explanation in how you calculated the higher amount of yardage for yarns. I plan on using the Vanna Choice 1 strand in plain and 1 strand in a varigated color. I am not sure who I am making this for so the size is not quite determined either the large size or something between the small and medium size. This is also my first CAL or KAL and am very excited about joining!



    Zontee says: Hi Cynthia, you probably multiplied the Lion Wool amounts by its yardage per ball, while Heather multiplied the Lion Cashmere Blend amounts by its yardage per ball for higher, more conservative numbers (and then rounding up to the nearest 100). This is just in case there is any variation in your project; you are better off with too much yarn in one dye lot than too little (and then having to purchase more yarn in a different dye lot).

  • Hi Heather and Zontee –

    I’ve been struggling with the gauge swatch for a while now (like others, I keep dropping and adding stitches to rows). I finally busted out the old graph paper and created a stitch diagram – the swatches now are closer to square, but have very pronounced scallops at the end of the rows. Could you confirm my assumptions? Am I doing this right? Would it be possible to post a diagram for the turns?

    Thank you!

    1 – If you chain 18, you should end up with 8 sc2tog (aka “Bumps”) and 1 single crochet per row.
    2 – The chain 1 at the end of the row prior to the turn does not count as a stitch.
    3 – Your first sc2tog on a row should be into the single crochet and the first chain 1 space.

    Heather says: “Hi, Pookie: It sounds like you are understanding the stitch pattern, the main thing is that you end up with the same # of stitches on every row before any decreases. Hope this will help you with the pattern.”

  • Pookie,

    The edge should be fairly straight. I have some photos I just took on Ravelry. The 3rd photo shows the bottom and front edge, the bottom is along the right, and the front edge is at the bottom of the photo (because I didn’t think to turn it. The 4th photo shows the whole left side I have done so far, the bottom is at the right hand side, with the front edge at the top of the photo.

    Make sure that when you ch1 and turn your work , you are not working into that ch1 stitch, but the first sc – Working into that ch1 will give you bump-outs at the edge, and increase your width.

    You really need to pay attention to the shape of your spaces when you first start, I am an experienced crocheter, and I kept goofing it up as well by missing a ch1 space

    Heather’s photo is excellent in showing the stitch definition, so even in a different yarn the pattern should look the same.

    Something else that may help to practice the pattern is to use a light colored yarn, even a single strand just to get the stitch pattern down.

    Hope that helps.

  • This is my 2nd CAL and although I don’t really have the time to start yet another project (have a baby blanket, comfort shawl and lapghan in process), I am going to make this jacket. Have never done a garment before. So far so good – I am halfway done with the back.

  • Hello everyone! This is my first CAL too. I’m a beginner, but really thrilled to try this out. I would like to make this jacket for my mother who likes jackets to be “oversized”. Can I make this pattern in a 2X or 3X to suit her?
    Thanks for doing this crochet on line class for us!!!

    Heather says: “Hi, Rena: This pattern is fairly easily adapted to sizing up. I would measure a garment that fits your mother and add the stitches remembering to add an even # to keep the pattern working.”

  • I spent a while looking for 2 yarns, came home with a Vanna’s choice in a mulberry/ magenta shade, but could not find anything else to go with it. The glammer yarns are all too pale. I will check out 2 other places tomorrow .
    I am working on a knit jacket in Denim and wheat, so wanted a completely differnt color.

    I may not start this for a while as I have many quilt tops to get to the quilter first and some rotator cuff surgery next week.
    , but I will enjoy the Cal progress

  • Hi Everyone,

    After reading everyone’s comment I really want to get involved, so count me in! I have no idea what yarn I am going to use. I am thinking maybe 2 strands of Vanna’s Choice, since I haven’t found much of the other Lion Brand yarns.

    Thanks for the tip that the yarn colors are made to mix and match. I am going to consider trying something more radical than I usually do, but try matching the yarn to a skirt or pants that I already own.

    Look forward to making the decision and getting started soon.

  • I also rushed to Michael’s to get yarn yesterday. I was frustrated as they are re-doing thier yarn dept. and did’t have much of a choise, but I found Vanna’s Choice in the charcoal and cocoa. I was going to do different colors, but when I put those two together I see why you are designers! My question is: I always have one edge of my work short a stich at the end, and have an uneven side. What am I doing wrong? This is an ongoing problem for me and the reason I don’t do crochet clothing.

    Heather says: “Hi, Diane: Make sure to ch1 after you turn your row and that your row ends with the sc in the pattern. Hope this helps you out.”

  • Hi everyone! This is my first CAL too and I’ve decided to use Nature’s Choice Organic Cotton.

    When choosing yarn colors while looking at web pages, I like to right-click on the photo of the yarn to copy and paste it into a blank Word doc. Then I can move the photos around and look at different colors side by side.

    I’ll go with one of these color combos:
    macadamia and pecan
    almond and macadamia
    strawberry and pecan

    Just need to swatch them and see what I like best. Looking forward to it!

  • Ok, I’m trying to figure out the gauge. I don’t get how to start it I guess. It says work the pattern stitch which requires both the sc and the ch 1 space. however, when you are starting the first row, where is the ch 1 space? I guess I’m not sure how to move from the foundation chain to the pattern stitch.

    but I’m still really excited about this CAL! it’s my first one 🙂

    Heather says: “Hi, Stephanie: The first stitch you go into for each row is the stitch right after the ch1. You will know you have done this right if you end up with 1 st left at the end of the row which is where you will work that sc at the end of the row.”

  • This in my first garment and i’m a little confused with this portion of the pattern (from the instructions for the back):

    Dec Row (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc2tog over first sc and ch-1 sp, (omit ch-1 for dec), sc2tog over next st and ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sc2tog over next st and ch-1 sp; rep from * to last st, (omit ch-1 for dec), sc in last st – 45 (51, 55, 61, 65) sts.
    I’m reading this as: Chain 1. One sc2tog. skip chain. One sc2tog. chain 1.

    Then chain 1 sc2tog to finish the row. Do not chain 1 before starting the next row.
    Continuing with the pattern:

    Note: The sc2togs of first pattern row following a shaping row (Dec Row or Inc Row) should be worked in the next 2 sts, these sts may be sc, sc2tog, or a ch-1 sp.
    Work 7 rows even in Pattern st, then rep Dec Row once – 43 (49, 53, 59, 63) sts.

    No idea what this means. Please help!!!!

    Heather says: “Hi, Beka: This note after the decrease row is just telling you that the stitch pattern “shifts” one stitch over because each side was decreased by one stitch.”

  • Heather, I am so excited to make this jacket. I would like to make it for work and am going to use either 2 cotton ease or 1 cotton ease with a sport weight. I would like to add pockets to this, as I need them in my line of work. Do you think that this would be possible? I’m thinking just a square “patch” pocket, no buttons of flaps. (Or maybe flaps, will have to see how it looks.) This is my first CAL, but I crochet all the time. Alas, I don’t know how to knit yet, and will teach myself someday, but with so many projects it’s hard to find the time! I also would like to thank Lion Brand Yarn for supplying this outlet for us!!

    Heather says: “Hi, Marie – Swatch first to see which yarn combo will work up best in the gauge called for. Pockets would not be a problem at all as they could just be squares sewn on to the front. Flaps or a button could be added after you see how the pockets look.”

  • Hello! I’m a new crotcher from Canada and I hope I can keep up. I will be making the small size. I tend have problems with clothing being too long between the shoulder and bust. How can I make adjustments to this part of the pattern.. what else might I need to keep in mind?


    Heather says: “Hi, Diane: The best thing you can do is take the measurments from a garment (in this case a cardigan or jacket) that fits your well and draw a schematic of that on a piece of paper. Then look at the schematic in the pattern and you will see where you need to make adjustments in the pattern. Hope this will help you make a jacket that fits you nicely!”

  • I am trying a single strand of Homespun since it is Super Bulky 6. I love the colors! Still working on my gauge square. seems like the key is to keep the foundation chain a bit loose, this yarn can be hard to work with if you get it too tight. Anyone else using Homespun?

  • Heather – I suggest you make two changes to the original pattern. 1: In the note after the Dec Row, add “Begin this row with 1sc to keep rows lined up vertically.” 2: In the Raglan shaping, “…work in pattern st to last 3 sts, sc in next st; leave last 2 sts unworked.”

    After swatching several yarns from my stash I settled on a wool blend from Jo-ann’s Sensations brand. For those who are still selecting yarn, you will find the stitch pattern very pleasing, so try a yarn that is not so busy that it mutes the pattern.

    Heather says: “Hi, Rene: I will talk in my next post about “lining up” the pattern. This is really only apparent to those of us working in a solid color – so for the rest of you who don’t see this shift…enjoy working the pattern as it is :-)”

  • Heather,

    Thanks for the comment to post no. 13 above. I added the sc(s) where necessary in the decrease section of the back, and my ‘bumps’ line up perfectly. I am using a light turqouise cotton and almond bamboo yarn together, so I think a shift in the pattern would have been noticeable. After the second decrease row I am back to the original instructions as you said. I’m assuming I’ll have to make similar adjustments in the raglan shaping area as well. So far it looks great!

    Heather says: “Glad to hear it’s going well, Mary! Yes, you will have to do all that “lining up” again for the raglan – keep track of the # of stitches as you go along and you should be fine.”

  • I saw a pattern for a very similar jacket made using Homespun. Will that work? I was going to make the jacket for my sister, but she told me yesterday she doesn’t want it. So now I am in search of a recipient so I can determine the size to make it.

  • I have started and actually gotten pretty far, but I think I am going to rip out and start over. I, like some of the others, am ending up with my piece coming out crooked. I end up with no sc at the end of row. I did start out with an even number of stitches and have sc at the end of each row. Anyway I am going to start again and see if I can get it even.

  • Hi! After reading about the less expensive yarn substitutions, I decided to join in, too. I’m using Vanna’s Choice in Dusty Rose and Silver Grey.

    My problem is that my chest measurement is 34″ (or 35″, depending on what I’m wearing). I think the smallest size is going to be a bit too tight, but the dimensions of the next size up are too big. However, when I made up my gauge swatch today with the N hook, it was just a little too big (ten stitches was somewhere between 4 1/4″ and 4 1/2″. I won’t know until I start the actual jacket, but I think that making the smaller size with this slightly larger gauge might make the jacket a better fit for me. Any suggestions on this?

    Heather says: “Hi, Jeanne: That may work for you, but check your row gauge as well as the # of rows is an important part of the shaping of the armholes and neck. Good luck with your jacket!”

  • I chose Wool-ease yarn in Oxford Grey and Wood. I have started and the only problem I have is zoning out on occasion and a row comes up short so it is take out a row and redo it. I am excited about this project. I have never made a garment before.

  • I’m getting discouraged. I’m thinking the spaces should line up over each other to get that ribbed look but I just can get my swatch right. Any suggestions?

    Heather says: “Hi, Susan: Make sure you are working a chain with an even # of stitches (I did 18) then work the foundation row. You are then ready to work the pattern and each row should end with a sc. Hope this will help you with your swatch.”

  • After 7 trips to different stores I finally landed on using the Pound of Love in Antique White. (total cost: $11.98) I tried to match this to a piece of fabric I have, but couldn’t find enough of anything that matched. Since I wanted to participate I thought I would just make it with what was available. I can always make another one with something else later. 🙂

    I couldn’t get my stitches big enough to match the gauge. I am compensating by crocheting the next larger size. So far everything seems to be fine.

    Margaret, I’m glad you found out that your sister didn’t want it before you made it and not after. For me? I never turn down anything my sister wants to make for me! (grin)

  • I am waiting for my yarn. I had to order it, so I am anxious about the colors. I choose Vanna’s Choice in Honey and Beige. I hope they look good. I do not want to have to wait even longer if I decide they are not right.

  • Reading all of the posts is getting me anxious to start the CAL but I’m working on a throw for my daughter right now. Good news is it’s just about finished!

    I’m going to try a swatch with Vanna’s purple and dusty purple. But the more I read about some of your color choices that may not be what I end up doing it in.

  • Reading everyone’s comments is helpful. I didn’t print the pattern but saved it as a document in my computer, so I’ve been copying and pasting the additional explanations into it. Haven’t started the swatch yet, as I’m knitting a baby hoodie for a little fellow who’s due next week!

    To Jeanne, #60, I’m like you, and that’s what I usually do to get a pattern to fit. I choose the closest size in the pattern and then use a slightly larger hook to get a slightly larger swatch and finished garment. It’s easier than recalculating all the numbers throughout the whole pattern. I’ve done that too, but it’s time consuming and often involves a lot of ripping out! Try a wider than normal swatch, close to the size of the real thing, so you incorporate the effects of stretch over a longer row. Do a couple inches, and that should give you an idea of how many stitches per inch you get, and whether the number of stitches in the pattern will give the right number of inches to fit you. ie. the gauge says 10 sts = 4″ so if you’re getting 4 1/2″, then 20 sts = 9″, 30 sts = 13 1/2″, 40 sts = 18″, and so on.

    I think I’m going to try using just one strand of worsted weight cotton. I may have to use the number of stitches in a large size to get the small garment, but I won’t know till I try the swatch. Will let you know how I make out, because there were several of us who wanted a lighter weight. Happy crocheting, everyone!

  • hi all,

    i was so excited to see this pattern and voted for it. i have been crocheting only a few years but wanted to give this a go. but im soooooo stuck. the stitch has me so confused,i can understand the first bit but not the ch-1 sp. i’ve read all the other post and still not making any sence( im so thick) any chance there is a drawing or a video post somewhere that i could look at and maybe make some sence of it.

    thanks and good luck to all, enjoy !!!

  • I am about to start on my swatch and have a question about the directions. I am new to crochet so I was wondering what this means:

    sc2tog in 2nd and 3rd chain from the hook

    does that mean you count the loop on the hook as 1 then the chain right off the hook is 2 and so forth?

    I always end up loosing a stitch and I think it is because I am not counting from the right place.

    And did I read somewhere here that the foundation row will end with the sc2tog but every row after that should end with a sc?

  • purplefly-heather covered this point in posting #7-hope it helps-i also had the same problem.

    lisa hemphill-if you go on to lion brands web site and search the stitch sc2tog it gives a good explanation-that’s were i learned the stitch-once you understand the stitch the direction makes more sense.

    just finish the back and have learned a lot from the project and reading the postings-my measurements are off from the pattern-i made the medium and edit it by deleting 2 stitches to make it a smaller-hopefully when i finish the other pieces it will all fit together-this is my first garment and i hope it works-very excited and hopeful for a great jacket-thanks heather and lion brand for the support and a great project

  • Don’t know if anyone else got frustrated when they saw that the RIGHT FRONT said, same as left, reverse all shaping… ugh. I’ve had a hard enough time wrapping my brain around all the DEC rows, gauging with single strand lion suede (wound up on an L hook), etc.

    So I decided it might be less confusion to work on all three pieces together from the bottom up with three sep skeins, this way I can shape them all at the same time on the same # row, reversing the shaping on the side is much easier to follow when you can mirror it along the way…

    Just thought I’d share, it may help someone else.

  • Hi all.. my first post..after looking at the yarns I ended up with Caron *Sunset* in the Painted Collection really pretty red solid also a Caron is Chocolate Brown.. was surprised to see that the Brown is from their Eco line.. that is made from recycled *post consumer* plastic bottles!
    I’ve gotten thru half of the back.. the decreases gave me a fit! I’d start the row with the right number of stitches for the Medium .. then get to the next row and be one short..ugh.. the Ragland shaping was a bit difficult too .. this only be my second attempt at “clothing”.. I undertand the patterns and the stitches.. but get frustrated with the increasing and decreasing.. really trying to be patient… Just very excited about actually completing this .. my DH keeps asking me if I can make anything other than scarves lol…

  • Ok…. I’ve decided to start my jacket this week! I’m so excited!

  • #70, I too am using a yarn from the Caron eco line! I am using Lion Wool in Rose and Caron eco in Twig.

    I think I got my answer about whether to count the look on the hook as 1 from the Lion Brand website, the answer is ‘no’. Thank you, anne. I understood sc2tog just not where to start my count of chain stitches. Now I am off an running, hopefully, I’ll understand the dec row now that several of you have posted about it.

  • I am wondering, would two strands of the Lion Cotton Bamboo work for this? They are the lighter weight worsted..or would I need to use three strands together? That might be confusing. Any suggestions would be helpful.I will have to order my yarn online from Lion as there aren’t any local stores that would have enough skeins of any colorway all in the same dye lot to do this.

    Thanks! Terri

    Zontee says: Hi Terri, since LB Collection Cotton Bamboo is a category 3 yarn and the two yarns recommended are category 4 yarns, your fabric will be a bit lighter if you only use the two strands. I think it would be wise to swatch both 2 and 3 strands and see what you prefer. That being said, if you like the texture of 2 strands at the correct gauge, I say “Go for it.” Hope that helps!

  • I just started the left front panel of the jacket. I counted every row to make sure I had the required stitches and always ended in a sc stitch at the end-I have 27 stitches (modify med size). On my dec row I had 26 stitches going across. I am now starting to work 7 rows even in Pattern stitch as per directions. But when I stitch across I have 1 stitch left after the sc and only 25 stitches going across. I’ve redone it several times and keep coming up with the same numbers. What am I doing wrong????

  • Hi! I’m excited to be doing my first CAL AND making my first grown-up sized sweater, lol 🙂

    I’ve been making baby blankets and baby outfits for a while now, but haven’t yet ventured out into the world of grown-up stuff. I thought this CAL was the perfect opportunity since I wouldn’t be doing it alone.

    I’m making this sweater for my BF who lives in another state. It’s just her style, I think, and I think she’ll really appreciate that I made it for her. Now, I just hope it’ll fit!

    I picked up my yarn this weekend … my store didn’t have a lot of Lion Brand yarn to pick from, so I had to make my own choices. I got the Lion Brand Lion Wool in the cocoa. And then I got the Bernat Satin (also a medium worsted) in Denim Mist Heather (looks a lot like the blue recommended in the pattern.)

    I worked my guage swatch and decided the N hook would work for me … but in all reality I probably ought to have used an M size as it was slightly (just ever so slightly) larger than recommended. But I’m too lazy to go out and buy a new hook, lol, and I really wanted to get started.

    So, I thought since my friend was probably a small, but maybe a tad bigger, I would be okay with my guage being slightly bigger–I would just maker her a small sized sweater (that would be a bit generous than a firm small). However, in working the pattern, I was finding that in fact I was measuring smaller than the 19″ across the back. Ugh.

    So, I took it all out and now I’m making a medium size that I hope will fit her in-between small-and-medium size. And that’s about as clear as mud, right?

    I know this is NOT how I should be doing this probably. I’m gonna get my hand slapped for not getting the sizing bang on. Sorry!

    Anyway, I AM happy to be here! Thanks for doing this 🙂

  • I am working with 2 worsted weight yarns together, and using an N hook – colors(charcoal and winter white) are great, especially with this patttern. Buuuuut….when I switched over to Dec Row, I didn’t end up with a single crochet, I ended with a Sc2tog….is this ok, that I have this at the end of my rows?

  • I was up to 8″ on the back, and even though the swatch worked out good, that shifting over thing has me confused. And I keep losing my last sc, so my rows look crooked.
    I think I will rip it out and try again.

  • I am using Bernat Satin yarn. One strand of Bermuda (variegated) and Maitai (solid). The gauge came out perfect with a size N hook. It is a nice soft yarn that I think will be nice for spring.

  • I was moving right along .. right up to the Dec… and see that I’m not alone. I started the Ragland with exactly the right number of stitches and even my measurements for Med size are correct..(woo hoo!) I too.. am having an issue with an extra stitch. On the dec row I come to the 2sctog -omit the ch 1 sp- and am left with two stitches… HELP.. what am I missing?

    Heather says: “Hi, Debra: The decrease rows do shift the pattern. I will be discussing this in my next post on Thursday. Please read through my responses to others about the pattern shifting and how I adapted with extra sc on the ends in some rows. Otherwise, my best advice to everyone is to count how many stitches you have after every row and make sure you are decreasing 2 sts at every decrease row and are remaining at that number for the rows where there are no decreases. I hope this will help you.”

  • post 76-

    I think I figure out what I did wrong. My last two stitch on the bottom row is two SC2tog (the beg of the dec row for the left front panel) and not my usually ch and sc. I just end like I usually do with the ch and sc into the tow sc2tog. Is that right?

    Heather says: Hi, Ann – At the bottom of your sweater, you should end with a sc after you have done the last sc2tog and ch 1. Make sure you have chained an the even # at the beginning of your size and it should work out for you.

  • I decided to go with a single strand of worsted weight cotton. I’m using Caribbean Cotton, by Village Yarn, that I got from Herrschners and had in my stash. I’m using a size 6mm hook (I think that’s the smaller size hook given in the pattern), and I get 15 sts to 4″. So that means for a small that I’ll make slightly larger (between small and medium), I’ll need a beginning chain of 74 sts. I tried a swatch, and after reading all about the difficulties with the decrease row, I practised it in my swatch too. I think I’ve got the hang of it! The yarn is a light mint green, and the stitch looks terrific in it. It makes a nice light fabric. It’s not so much for the climate where I live, which is cool Canada, but the inner, tropical-humid climate, if you catch my drift! 🙂 But I like the chunky look too, so maybe I’ll try it with two strands next fall, and make a winter version. I also liked somebody’s idea of vintage buttons. Now, just to find some… (This is fun, and I’m having as much fun reading the posts as I am doing the crocheting!)

  • Hello,

    I am considering a slightly varigated purple worsted wool with the purple moonlight mohair. Still working on my gauge and learning the pattern. A beautiful pattern.

  • Thanks Zontee for the extra explanation on calculating yardage. I am just not used to using two differnct weights in substitution.

    I decided to make the large size first in the Vanna’s Choice Chocolate and Woods Print. I have about half the back done so far. My daughter loves the look and wants one. I will have to adjust the pattern size for that one and love the comments of altering sizes.

  • Hello,

    I started the gauge and had to re-do it three times, for my swatch was to big and not working out per instructions. I’m using Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Cranberry, and Bernat Satin Camel, so the sweater will have a really nice and soft feel with a variegated look. I had to go down to size 8mm/L hook to get the sizing of the gauge. For my swatch I chained 13 and worked 9 rows as instructed and got the 4 inches by reducing the hook size. It’s nice to be able to use yarn I already have instead of having to go out and buy more.

  • Heather,

    Can you please clarify how the stitches are made when doing the sc2tog. On the flickr group discussion it seems that the chain-one of the pattern when doing the sc2tog one draws up a loop through the first stitch and then in the second stitch, which is the chain-one, it seems they are putting the hook underneath the chain-one stitch rather then through the chain-one stitch. This will change the pattern in how it looks. I have been going through the chain by putting the hook through under the top two loops of the chain and not underneath the chain-one in the space. I found this look closer to your picture of the gauge. I had to make an effort to make my chain one loose in order for the hook to go through it rather then underneath it in the space below.

    Please let me know, because I may have to start all over. I am at the back foundation row where the piece measures 3 1/2 inches.

  • when the direction says “work even in pattern” does that mean you should continue doing the row and should finish on the wrong side.

  • Okay, can someone tell me what I’m doing wrong? I’m still working on my swatch. I got the foundation row done fine, but on the second row, I find myself doing the sc2tog over “ch-1 space, first st” rather than “first st, ch-1 space” as the pattern indicates. It seems that either I have to crochet into the same stitch where I made the turn, or else the pattern LEANS a lot.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!

  • Hi Denise,
    You have to start by going into the sc which is the last stitch on the row below, and immediately after the turning ch-1 after you turn. It almost seems too soon to start, but that’s how it works. After you turn your work, it looks like it’s right at the base of the turning chain, the first two strands that head out to the left. Make your first loop for the sc2tog in there. Hope that helps!

  • I would love to here how the project is working in the Homespun. I almost used this yarn also as sI love the colors. I am done with the back, and am hoping I am doing it right. I don’t seem to be having a problem with the pattern slipping, but am really confused with talk of doing the sc2tog over or under the stich, the same with the ch1. I always thought you go through the stiches, unless told to do otherwise. Does this make sense? My measurements for the back were right on with the schezmatic. WooWoo!

  • Hi Anne,
    “Work even in pattern” means you keep going following the pattern for the number of rows or inches that it tells you. So if it says “work even in pattern for 3½ inches”, you keep repeating the pattern row over and over for that length. Then it will tell you what to do next. Does that help?

  • Thanks, Ilehlia! You answered my question perfectly.

    And now I have yet another question. Actually, it’s EXACTLY the same question that Inge (#87) has: should I put my hook UNDER the ch-1 space, the way I would for the seed stitch? I tried it that way and the works goes a lot faster, plus the fabric becomes a tad more flexible. Otherwise I’m finding that I’m PUSHING the needle thru each ch-1 stitch, even though I’m working as loosely as I can.

  • Thanks, llehlia.

  • Denise (#93) — I’m doing this stitch putting the hook into the little hole under the ch-1sp instead of just under the threads. As you mentioned it is a lot easier and faster. I did my gauge-swatch under the threads and then 4 more inches using the space underneath and it looked exactly the same to my eye.

  • Okeydokey, I’m having a problem.

    I did my swatch and everything measured fine. So I began work on the project. I’ve completed the back and am now working on the left front.

    I wanted to ignore the problem I was having, but I really think I ought to ask for your help before I waste any more yarn (assuming I have to redo the back).

    Like I said, my swatch measured perfect. I’m using an N hook and two strands of worsted medium. The length of my piece measures fine. However, the width does not. I am short by a couple inches. Consistently. I’m short at the bottom of the back and at the top by the same margin.

    I have no idea how to fix that–the width. Is that a hook problem? But if so, then why does it measure correctly length wise?

    The stitch count is correct. I’ve checked it after each row and it’s always worked out just as described in the directions, always ending with a 2sctg followed by a ch1 and sc. And I’ve double checked the stitch count regularly.

    So … ??? What do you think? What could be my problem? Help! (please! :D)

  • Hi all! this will be my first crochet a long and i am excited to start. i spent over 2 hours trying to pick out yarn and finally decided on vanna’s choice in navy with bernat satin sport in marina for a slightly varigated and shimmery effect and so far it looks beautiful! i completed the gauge swatch and that was fine, and i’m currently about 1/4 up the back and am loving it so far! looking forward to your comments.

  • Ohhh! This is working up nicely! I love the pattern and hope my whole project goes as well as the first several inches of the back! 😉

  • This is my first CAL and I am just beginning to crochet again after more than 30 years. I don’t remember being this confused–but then I was much younger and knew everything! I have made about 15 swatches and finally have something that is square and somewhat resembles Heather’s picture. Now–to count it.
    There are TWO stitches in each “bump,” correct? (EAch “bump” does not count as one stitch?) 10 stitches + (plus–as compared to “x”=by) 4 inches means in a 4” square I should count 9 rows UP and 4 1/2 “bumps” across?

    Heather says: “You are right – each bump counts as 2 sts. You should get 5 “bumps” for each 4″, make sure to do a large enough swatch. (I chained 18 for my swatch in the picture.)”

  • Oops–sorry. I thot I was editing but I was posting! Is there anyone near Kent, Ohio who is making this jacket–I may need video!

  • One more–what is the foundation row? I thought I was to begin the pattern right into the foundation chain?

    Heather says: “Hi, Jan: The foundation row is the row done between the chain and the pattern. It is done only once to “set up” your piece for the pattern stitch.”

  • I finished the back and have started the left front. I am to the section where you repeat the pattern stitch for 7 rows. I am making a size large. The pattern says I should have 30 stitches after the decrease row and I do. With a even number of stitches I end up with one extra stitch at the end of the row. What do I do with it???????

    Heather says: “Hi, Debbie: The shaping can be a little tricky at the armhole and I’m glad you are counting your stitches as you are doing your decreasing. If you have an extra stitch, at the armhole edge, you can work 2 sts together at the end, or skip a stitch at the beginning of the next row. Just make sure to do this at the armhole edge so that the front edge will stay nice and straight. Make sure to look at my post later today that talks about shaping and pattern for the jacket!

  • Thanks, Mary (#95). I decided to do this but then found that it gave a pronounced pattern of vertical loops. This became a problem when I was working on the decrease row so I just frogged the WHOLE thing (about 20 rows).

    I’ve decided to go back to putting the hook THROUGH the ch-1 stitch as from my gauge it looks as though the pattern is less pronounced.

    And in case anyone’s interested 😉 I’m using ONE strand of Red Heart Fiesta — color Millennium — which is a medium worsted yarn. It’s gray with bits of black and white that give it a slight sheen. I’m deliberately making this a bit lighter weight as I hope to wear it in the spring (!) always with a blouse under it, so it doesn’t matter if it’s slightly see-through.

  • Hi Jan (#101), the foundation row is the pattern row, it’s just worded differently because it tells you to work into chains instead of stitches. It’s no different than the pattern rows.

    Denise (#103), what size hook are you using for the one strand? I’m also using one strand only, of worsted weight cotton, but I downsized the hook to match. So mine isn’t very see-through, and the pattern texture is smaller. I like it though, as it still has lots of interest, and is a lighter weight. But it takes longer, and I’m amazed to read that some people are already finished the back and starting the front.

  • […] Moderne Jacket Crochet-Along: Choosing a Yarn & Swatching for Gauge […]

  • I am using two Vanna’s Choice yarns, one of which is a “tweed” and a size K hook in order to get the gauge. But the jacket so far (just a few inches up the back) is very stiff. Is it supposed to be like that?

  • Thanks #93 Denise and #95 Mary,

    I did start over and looked at the pattern again. I went through the chain space area this time instead of through the chain under the first two threads. This makes each stitch more even, for the chain-one does not loop up in a verticle position now but is an even horizontal stitch.

  • Dorothy,
    I am unsure of the tweedy Vanna’s choice yarn, but I do know that Vanna’s choice yarn is a heavier worsted weight than what the pattern yarn calls for. So 2 heavier worsted weights may cause it to be stiffer even though the gauge came about okay.
    I am using 1 strand Vanna’s choice in navy, and one strand of a sport weight yarn (Bernet satin sport in marina because it was on sale for 1.98 per skein), and it’s a little more flexible. although I do know that this particular jacket done in crochet may not be super flexible, it should have a drape and flexibility that you are comfortable with wearing…
    Hope that helps! Happy crochet, looking forward to seeing your project!

  • I am doing mine in Vanna’s choice also (with Vanna glamour) – but have not started yet (waiting for glam via mail order). Does anyone think blocking will (or could) take some of the stiffness out?

  • Vicki-
    Vanna’s is a 100% acrylic yarn, so I don’t think much stiffness will be taking out once blocked. With your yarn choices, I am assuming you wont’ have the stiffness like you may think though. Sounds great, what colors?

  • Ilehlia (#104), I’m using the N hook. It’s a plastic one (I *think* its a Bates hook but I’m not at home right now so can’t check).

    I’m finding it tougher going now that I’m doing the “through the ch-1 stitch” rather than in the ch-1 space, but I think it will be worth it. The pattern is a bit more subtle and I hope won’t be as much of an issue when I get the the shaping parts.

    Keeping fingers crossed for the stitch AND for not having to frog yet again…

  • Well, I’m still waiting for my yarn to get here, hope it gets here today so I can start working on my jacket this weekend. I picked charcoal and taupe in the Cotton Ease so it will be two dark tones and I like these colors together. I have ordered the larger hook also, but have been working with some left-over yarn practicing the stitch with my size J hook and it looks like the close-up picture on the first e-mail from our fearless leader so I think I have that right. I’ve even tried the bind off’s for the sleeves to see how that worked out and it seems OK. I’m getting kind of antsy for that yarn to get here. Keeping my fingers crossed that it gets delivered today. Have a good weekend everyone. Hope it’s not snowing where you are, saw that it was coming down like crazy in NY this morning but here in Ohio it’s cool but not that cold.

  • To Rhelly – I had a few choices going on, but finally chose Vanna’s choice in Honey with Vanna’s Glamour Topaz (original choice was Vanna Choice Espresso and Glamour Copper – but I decided to go ‘brighter’ – my husband’s choice – I finally got my yarn today but had to leave town, so have not had a chance to see how it will look together yet – am excited to start when I get home.

  • I am a late starter on this project! I learned to crotchet 25+ years ago but except for a few squares for a “warm-up” afghan, haven’t made anything for 20+ years (been knitting instead). I am excited but a bit nervous. Picked my yarn (Vanna’s Choice linen and Bernat satin denim mist) and swatched with the N hook. It seemed to work so I started the back. But now, after 2.5 inches, it is too short – darn! I am going to rip it out and need to decide if I should just follow the directions for a larger size (was going for a small, go for a medium instead?) or use a bigger hook (but the next one I can find is a P in plastic and I don’t like plastic hooks).

  • Hi, I was so excited to find this crochet along. I am hoping to go get some yarn this evening so I can start. I’ve been crocheting for about 8 years, but have never tried anything this complicated. I have made 2 Martha Stewart ponchos, the first being a near disaster with a lot of blood sweat and tears, but the second was much better. I’ve made several afghans, just finished one the other day in fact. Also have made some dish cloths, pot holders, and a few hair scrunchies, but I want to make something I can ware. I am blind, so it is interesting, reading everyone’s comments about their color choices. I’m pale with brown hair and blue eyes, so what colors would go for me? I’ve never had to make a swatch and measure, so this is all new, but am real excited to get started. Hopefully, Michaels has what I want or I’ll have to order. There is an A C Moore, but it’s about an hour away and drivers are hard to find. Anyone live near Charleston, WV? Happy crocheting.

  • Hi, very excited to find this CAL. I’ve been crocheting off and on (more off than on) for 35+ years (afghans, baby things, hats, scarves, discloths). I’ve never made anything this difficult and am really excited by a challenge and believe I can learn a lot from this.

    Just found this site yesterday (3/21/09), so will have catching up to do. Went to 2 yarn stores yesterday evening, couldn’t find the yarns called for in the pattern, so would have to order which would mean more delay. Not sure, does it take quite a long time to get yarn from the Lion Brand site? I’m going to keep checking locally today.

    I did find a beautiful Vanna’s Choice yarn in something called Taupe Mist; however, the store didn’t carry enough skeins (they had only five). It is verigated with what looks like Taupe and Linen. Beautiful. I am wondering, however, before I keep pursuing this yarn (I would just work the same yarn with 2 strands as in the pattern), do you think it would be too busy? Should I try to find the solid taupe and solide Linen? Really want to get started here. Thanks!!!

  • Hi again from WV. Went to Michaels last night and their selection wasn’t what I had hoped for, but I did find some yarn that seems to be working. I couldn’t aford most of the LB yarns, especially when I’m not even sure this will turn out, so went with Caron instead. Got 4 pounds of caron, 2 antique white and 2 lace, which my hubby says is kind of a kakki. Both are solids and all they had, unless if I wanted pink or yellow, but wanted something neutral to matc just about anything. Getting ready to start the dec rows in the back. So far, so good. Got all 4 yarns plus a crochet hook for under $30. Now, if it turns out and i like it, I’ll try some of the cotton or even the swaide. Really liked the chenill, but need to save my pennies, first. I do have a question, though. Because I can not see the picture, isit supposed to be short? What about the sleeves? Are they to your wrists or just below the elbows? Thanks.

  • Really enjoying reading the posts. Still waiting for my yarn, it will be here tomorrow. I wanted to keep it simple, so swatched with Wool Ease Thick & Quick, but could not get the gauge even at a K hook. Loved the pattern though. Ordered Wool Ease Chunky in Willow , hope it works for me, but I’ve never worked with it. Looking forward to getting started, though it looks as though some of you will finish pretty soon. Keep coming up with those tips and advice, it’s great for those of us who are trailing behind.

  • I have another question. Although, I see not all questions are answered on here. Is there another page or site where they are being answered now?

    Anyway, my question is about the hooks. I have always preferred using a metal hook. The N hook in the Lion brand at our store is plastic. I bought an N hook in a different brand that is metal but the size/shape definitely looks different. Can anyone tell me what you are using or what you think is best? Thanks!!

    Zontee says: Hi Karen, this page is just ONE CAL post by Heather. There are new CAL posts every Thursday until the end of the CAL. Check the main blog page at for new posts OR click the “crochet-along” button under “Categories” on the right-hand bar for ALL CAL posts.

  • metal for sure – I too do not like plastic hooks

  • Well, I was excited when I first read the e-mail about a Crochet Along. I’d never heard of one until a few minutes ago—when I read it. I thought, Cool. I could crochet with folks around the wide world web rather than alone in the living room beside folks who don’t understand the language of sc-sk2-sc2tog. But then I started reading the posts and am so convinced I’d get lost almost immediately that I can’t muster up the courage to even begin thinking about what colors I’d choose…and I consider myself an intermediate stitcher. Hmmm. I may have to re-evaluate my level. Oh well. I’ve been busy thinking about what colors to paint my home with. Maybe I’ll go back to that….
    Best of luck to all in the CAL. Maybe I’ll join next time.


  • This will be my first CAL and am a little nervous after reading some of the problems with the gauge and also with the pattern. I just started knitting again after 40 years but love this jacket so will dig into my memory vault for my crochet experience and give it a try. Starting late but they say “better late than never”. I too want to thank LionBrand for providing this outlet. Not sure what yarn I will use but know it will be LionBrand.

  • Heather,

    You replied to #53 Beku on the note. My question is the note “FYI” or do you work the note and then work pattern for 7 rows? HELP!

    Heather says: “Hi, Brenda: The note is only in the directions to tell you that the pattern shifts after you do a decrease row. But after you do the decrease row, you work 7 rows without decreasing, then another decrease row – so the 7 rows are the number of rows you do between the decrease rows. Hope this helps!”

  • […] 3 visits to the store and reading the logs that people put on the Lion Blog I thought I might go a little more daring than a plain color for the jacket. I picked Vanna’s […]

  • How do I get the pattern?

    Zontee says: Hi Joey, the pattern is available on Click here to see the details page.

  • […] (CALs). (Click the highlighted text to read her posts about the Cable Luxe Tunic, the Moderne Jacket, and the Saturday Morning Hoodie — this is just a sampling!) She has also worked as a […]

  • does running help you lose weight…

    Moderne Jacket Crochet-Along: Choosing a Yarn & Swatching for Gauge | Lion Brand Notebook…

  • […] (CALs). (Click the highlighted text to read her posts about the Cable Luxe Tunic, the Moderne Jacket, and the Saturday Morning Hoodie — this is just a sampling!) She has also worked as a […]

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