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Mesh Raglan Pullover Crochet-Along: Starting Chain & Raglan Increases

Welcome back to the Mesh Raglan Pullover CAL! Hope you all had a good week of swatching adventures and have your hooks ready to go – it’s time to get this pullover going! This sweater is worked in the round and as such the traditional start is a long chain which is then joined with a slip stitch in the first chain to create a giant ring. Sounds simple enough, but the tricky thing is to make sure there isn’t a twist in the chain. If the chain is twisted it will always be that way and the top of your sweater won’t work up quite right.

Lucky for us, this pattern gives you another option for starting to eliminate this problem. In this alternative method, you work the first row of the pattern and then join for working in the round. This makes it much simpler because once you have the width of a row established it’s so much easier to see that it’s twist free.

First row
Click here to zoom.

An easier way to do something? Sign me up! To work the beginning this way, follow the instructions: “YOKE: Notes: 1.” listed above the traditional chain instructions. You’ll notice when you follow this method you will end with an extra chain after you work across – this is intentional! As the pattern states, you will later sew the ends of the first row together while weaving in your tails and this remaining ch-1 will become another space in the mesh pattern. Voila!

Yoke

At the end of this set up, just be sure you still remember to place your markers in each of the V-st spaces (4 total) and then proceed to Rnd 2. If you haven’t used markers before they are simply another way to make things easier for you! By putting a stitch marker in each V-st space, you’ll remember that is where you need to do work the following V-st to make the raglan increasing a success.

Markers

Speaking of increases, I just want to clarify how the increases at the four “corners” work. In all of the other stitches around you are skipping over the ch-1 spaces and working double crochet stitches in each dc across. For the increases, however, you work the dc in the dc as per the usual, ch-1, but then instead of skipping over the ch-1 space, that marked space is where you will work your V-st: dc, ch 1, dc. This will be followed by another ch 1, and yet another dc in the dc following the space. This is how the "corners" will look...

Corners

...and this is the result after the yoke increases are completed:

Yoke increases
Yoke increases

As you may have noticed from the photo above I already have the neck-tie in place. This is so I can try it on and know how it is going to fit when finished. As some of you may notice, the neck opening for this top is quite wide. This is because the finished garment has a neck-tie to cinch it to a closer fit, and I want to account for this while I try it on as I go. To do so, jump ahead to the “FINISHING” section, “Neck Tie,” but really it’s just a nice long chain that you then weave through the top of the mesh pattern. Ready to go!

I'm still deciding between two sizes, so I decided to slip the yoke on and see how it's going for me. Uh oh...my row gauge is causing me some troubles! I didn't think about the fact that the increases are worked on every round of this pattern, and as such if your row gauge is off, you will reach the correct stitch count, but it may not be long enough to reach to the underarm. Bummer. So now what?

I see two options:

  1. Use a hook that gets me the correct row gauge but wrong stitch gauge just for the yoke then switch hooks for the remainder of the pattern.
  2. Use the hook for your stitch gauge, work extra yoke increases and then account for the extra stitches by working fewer (or no) chains for the underarm and/or do a few increases after the underarm join when first working the body.

The H hook I chose not to use did achieve the correct row gauge, so using the larger hook for the yoke then switching to the G hook for the remainder of the top seems like the right choice in my case. I was debating between 2 sizes anyway, so this will give me a little more room in the bust without added width in the body. Plus if the yoke ends up a little big, the tie is there to tighten up the fit! I'm going to rip back to row 2 and redo the yoke, which is a bummer but that's why we're here to support each other by working through this together! It's only 9 rows and it's better to get it right. I was once told, "faster isn't better, it's just faster," and I think that's the perfect way to look at this.

Alright, I'm going to go rip mine back and go again, so get your yoke started and hopefully learn from my attempt. If you have other ideas for how to account for this problem, please comment below! That's why we have a crochet-along: to learn from each other. Next week we’ll talk about creating the armhole openings and continuing to try on the start of your sweater to be sure you’re getting the fit you want!

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  • DEE

    I got the stitch gauge w/ a G Hook, but not the row gauge.  I got the same results as you when doing the gauge swatch, H seemed too loose.  Not sure what hook to go with...are you going to go w/ both hooks?  I think I will use the H for the yoke, and the G for the rest of the body...seems easier than making additional increases...

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1127797094 Jean Michael

    glad mine fits so far as I am almost 2/3 the way through the body

  • Evelyn

    Jean's is looking great! I'm just past the
    yoke and started on the body and I have a question before I go any further.


     


    At the
    end of the first Body rnd, " join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch."
    Okay so far. But  in the next  rnd, it says "sl st into next
    ch-1 sp, ch 4, turn, *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around; join with sl st
    in 3rd ch of turning ch." It looks like doing this at the end of each Body
    rnd will result in an increase of 1 dc in each round (3 chs of the ch 4 would
    count as a dc and while all the other dc's are made into dc's in the previous
    rnd, this one is in the middle of a ch 1 sp.) That's eventually 23 additional
    dc's and I don't see how that can be right. I assume you should have the same
    number as you started with. 



    I've done 2 rnds of the Body section and the second rnd has one more dc than
    the first – unless I've done something wrong here.









    Can
    anyone help?

  • Evelyn

    Jean's is looking great! I'm just past the
    yoke and started on the body and I have a question before I go any further.


     


    At the
    end of the first Body rnd, " join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch."
    Okay so far. But  in the next  rnd, it says "sl st into next
    ch-1 sp, ch 4, turn, *dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * around; join with sl st
    in 3rd ch of turning ch." It looks like doing this at the end of each Body
    rnd will result in an increase of 1 dc in each round (3 chs of the ch 4 would
    count as a dc and while all the other dc's are made into dc's in the previous
    rnd, this one is in the middle of a ch 1 sp.) That's eventually 23 additional
    dc's and I don't see how that can be right. I assume you should have the same
    number as you started with. 



    I've done 2 rnds of the Body section and the second rnd has one more dc than
    the first – unless I've done something wrong here.









    Can
    anyone help?

  • Bethany

    I have to say I've had some trouble with the yoke.  I didn't do the alternative, because I really don't like sewing things together, and I had to try twice to attach without twisting.  The other thing that has given me fits is the joining corner of each round.  After lots of studying the other "corners" I think I have found my missing stitch, so I just want to say to everyone: don't give up!  You can do it!

  • Berta Gilholm

    I did half of the yoke and basically had one extra dc, so frog and start again. This time I took my time and realized that the (slst, ch 4 at end and beginning of rows ends up being another v stitch in a corner) that helped me get my brain straight. I love the cotton ease and the pattern and will probably make two.

  • Berta Gilholm

    I did half of the yoke and basically had one extra dc, so frog and start again. This time I took my time and realized that the (slst, ch 4 at end and beginning of rows ends up being another v stitch in a corner) that helped me get my brain straight. I love the cotton ease and the pattern and will probably make two.

  • I've run into the same situation with the g hook versus the h hook as several others. I worked up through round 4 with the h and found the neckline to be far too big, so I dropped back to the G, knowing the rows would be too few to make gauge, but I proceeded on. Now, it fits nicely for the neckline but needs rows. I will be ripping it out, yet again. However, I think I still want to use the G versus the H. I'm curious how it would look if I do a increase round, then work one even, then increase round, and so on... I think I will try it and see what I get! Why not, I can always rip it out and start again...

  • White5415


    Hi Kendra, In row 1 Isee the 3 v-st. I don't see where you do the 4th. v-st. I am making the med. size.
                                                 Thanks Ruby

  • Pat

    A couple of things: as I read the pattern, the two long sides were front and back, and the two short sides were the sleeves.  Your photo shows the front tie on a short side.  Is this confusion you, me or the pattern?

    Second thing: I'm six rows into the yoke, and it's looking good, but I can already see it's going to be tight across the bust.  My thought was - can I add an extra v-stitch at each side of the front for several rows to give myself some ease?  In gauge, 4 stitches will give me not quite an inch, and two extra v's would give me 4 stitches per row.

    I'm going to experiment with it, but I wanted to see if anyone has reason to say "NO!! Don't do that!!!"

    Thanks

  • Ellen

     I am making the large size and would like to know how many double crochet should I have? I think I am 3 short and will rip out again..
    Ellen

  • Janice Eagan

    Whoa, I'm glad I read this first. I, of course, didn't save my H 5mm swatch to measure the row after reading how stitch was more important. Last night I whipped up 2 swatches, one in the 5mm and just out of curiosity the J 6mm. Turns out I've got the right gauge for stitch AND row with my trusty Susan Bates 6mm. Sweet! Looks like I can start this segment today.

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  • Vonciele

    I have completed 7-8 rows of yoke and after reading this post decided to check gage again and corners are right on, but sides slightly short, so I think I will carry on and finish the yoke to judge the piece. I also have been trying to decide between two sizes, may go with larger size now since I never washed my swatch, oops. I Have been thinking of using a ribbon in the yoke instead of crocheted chain tie so will slip one in for sizing for now.
     
    I have not read all posts so forgive me if I am repeating info here but, I wanted to let those with less experience crocheting know that I have discovered from past experience that when I use 3 chs for a starting double crochet, that my starting edge/corner is usually too long and so I almost always use 2 chs for my starting double crochet. In this pattern, I ch 3 to start row, 2 for double + 1 for ch. Be careful not to let chains get to tight. (I tend to crochet a tight stitch )

  • Continuing from my last post, I decided not to rip out the 7 rounds that I completed, because the way that my row gauge was going (8 rows to 4 in), I figured that in order to meet gauge I would just need 2 additional rounds on top of the 10 needed for the medium yoke. So, I proceeded to implement what I had suggested earlier, working one round even, then the increase round, another round even, and then the final increase round (total of 13 rounds). In this manner, I was able to maintain the integrity of the stitch guage and end with the correct number of stitches. 

    I my opinion, it worked out well, and unless someone was looking for it, the "worked even" rounds do not alter the look whatsoever.

  • Katymae01

    After a couple of starts, I was able to get the yoke finished in one sitting.  It looks wonderful.  Had to use the larger "H" hook but may go down to the smaller "G" hook for body.  Not sure yet.  Just excited the yoke turned out so nice looking!

  • So, my yoke is completed, and onward I go....

  • Anikaz

    That is really pretty.  Nice work!

  • Debra

    Ok, I finished the yoke and counted my dc. I should have 168 ... no matter how many times I count, I come up with 167. I've looked and looked for the "missing" dc stitch and can't find it. Since we will be putting chains in the underarm area do I have to rip back and try to find the lost dc?
    The yoke looks really even. I can't see anything that looks like an error.

  • retired teacher

    I have finished the yoke.  I crocheted 3 flower appliques (rose pattern) to add to the front of the yoke.  I like the way that turned out.  I'm not tech savy so I can't post a picture.

  • Susan

    Following the crochet-a-long with baited breath.  Haven't crocheted a garment in 20 years, just afghans, etc, because I CANT MAKE EM FIT.  Can adjust ANY knitting pattern to make it work, and this saddens me because my mom was an expert at crochet, all kinds.  This really looked like a garment I could do, but I have officially thrown in the towel, can't rip out any more and stlll use the yarn.....BUT I will try it again after youall finish yours and I read your solutions to probs!  OK, ladies, keep on posting probs and solutions, maybe I can learn something!

  • Wendy

    Yikes!  After reading all this from experienced crocheters I am a little intimidated.  I have only crochedt afghans, scarves, dishcloths, etc. never a garment.  Just starting the first round of the yoke because I had to order my yarn (marine).  Will keep plugging away and hope that ignorance is bliss!

  • Maggie in St. Paul

    After about 5 tries I finally got the yoke part done!  Hooray!  Here are pics of my progress so far....

  • Janice Eagan

    I was so excited to get this yoke rocking that I sat and worked it like it was my job. On my first attempt, row 2 was short a few dc's so I went back to look at the pictures that Kendra posted and realized that I wasn't putting dc's in the V-stitch posts (not sure of the correct terminology here). I was just v-stitching in the v stitch space so I was not increasing. I ripped and redid and attempt # 2 had the 148 dc the pattern called for. Yhay!

    I'm making the Med size and I needed to dip into a second skein just before finishing row 10. This made me wish I had written down my gauge swatch measurements for unwashed and washed gauge on my printed pattern. Lesson learned. Weaving in my ends is not my favorite part of crocheting so I hope washing doesn't unravel too badly.

    When adding the neckline I wasn't sure if I was supposed to count the v-stitch spaces as ch1-spaces. It didn't seem right to skip them and as far as I can tell it looks like the picture. Also, I chose to thread 3/8" ribbon through the neck instead of the long chain. This way I can figure out exactly how long I want the chain after the garment is completed or I might stick with ribbon and change out with different colors to match different outfits. I will seriously be needing a camisole under this top.I don't know about anyone else but when I tried on the yoke before putting the ribbon through the neck line I was horrified at how big the yoke was and hoping it was going to shrink a lot when washed. Now that the ribbon is in I've got my fingers crossed this top doesn't shrink too much. I'm thinking maybe I should have made the large and I am second guessing my gauge. Knowing what I know now I will be sure to take before and after swatch measurements for my next garment. I'll be putting this away until the next blog installment.

    Can't wait till Thursday!

  • Dee Ann

    I have been crocheting for a long time now, but have never made a top.  Scarves, hats, and afghans are all I have constructed before.  I've never paid attention to stitch guage, but after reading all the posts I made 2 swatches.  The H hook swatch was right on the stitch guage, but too long on the row count ( 2 rows too long) and the G hook swatch was several stitches over on the stictch guage but the same size on the H hook on the rows.  Is this weird?  From reading all of your posts, do you think it will be good for me to use the H hook for the yoke and then change to the G hook for the body?  I recall reading somewhere about blocking.  Is it easier to make a sweater that is too losse somaller with blocking or is it the other way around (make it bigger if it is crocheted too tight?)  I think I crochet loosely.  I'm all new to making garments, but really want to be successfuly at it.  thanks for all the posts, it is really helpful to those of us who are new to garment making.  I look forward to hearing from ya'll.

  • Mmelvincox

    Kendra your ideas of adding the tie and washing the swatch were great.  Have completed 1 pullover (lg) and working on another (2x).  For the first one I used some cotton yarn that I already had. Got the correct gauge with a J hook.  The top looks gorgeous.  Plan to post pictures soon. I love this top.  Have gotten others to do it.  They should join us soon.  This is my first garment and CAL.  I am looking at my next garment project all ready.

    Miranda

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_56IUDC2XELCEOLHBPQZLB24N5I m

    Once I started I couldn't stop ...I decided not to put the a ribbon/tie at the top.....it  still fits nicely with the wide neckline.  I also tried it on just before fininshing and decided  to add 10 extra rows....just a preference for longer tops.  Looks great

  • Connie Whitesell

    I understand that you start the V-stitches in the marked ch space, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to do the V-stitches in Row 1, where there is only the foundation chain. Help anyone? 

  • Patty

    Feeling a little imtimidated by the other posts, I began crocheting like a mad women, finishing up the yoke today,THEN, I counted my stitches.  I know I should have been counting after every row, even told myself that as I was working, but I was in such a hurry to get this part done.  Well I ripped back to row 4 before I found my mistake, so I'm now counting after each row.  It seems like a waste of time, until you have to undo hours of work.  So for all you newbies, do a gauge and count your stitches.  There are reasons why we are told to do these things and for the life of me can't figure out why we balk at doing them, cause when we follow the advice, the garment/item will look like something you can be proud of.  Good luck to you all, I am inspired to keep at it by your pictures!

  • Sharon Richey

    I'm rather new to crochet and I was wondering - if we're working in the round, why don't we just keep working around instead of chaining 4 and turning?

    Thanks

  • Annette

    Not quite done with my yoke yet, but it seems to be going well.  Hope to be done tomorrow so I can go on with the group.  This is also my first real garment (that being something you put your arms through!) and so far I really like the pattern.  I'll post a picture as soon as I get the yoke done.  

  • http://blog.lionbrand.com/2011/07/21/mesh-raglan-pullover-crochet-along-underarm-chains/ Mesh Raglan Pullover Crochet-Along: Underarm Chains | Lion Brand Notebook

    [...] Mesh Raglan Pullover Crochet-Along: Starting Chain and Raglan Increases [...]

  • 7/21/2011
    Hi Janice,

     Thank you for the excellent and informative post.

    Weaving in ends is far from my favorite thing to do whether knitting or crocheting. That being said, whenever possible, I use a Russion join to attach a new skein of yarn. Here's a how to link:

    http://community.knitpicks.com/notes/Joining_Yarn_-_Russian_Join

     With this join there are no ends to weave, simply trim the ends close. I've been using it for the project yarn, and it seems to be working out just fine.

     Presently, I am trying to discern what type of tie I want to use on the neck (if I even actually use it - I do like the squared neckline, too). In any case, I'm going between a twisted cord and the pattern chain cord (I-Cord was too thick, and I don't care for ribbon in this case).

     I'm also not inclined to use a tie bottom design, so I've modified my garment to have a crocheted trim on the bottom, an open shell with picot trim (Kate Haxell, 2009, Crochet edgings & trims 150 stitches, p. 26, The Harmony Guides, Interweave). I may use this trim on the arms as well, only time will tell.

    I also prefer a longer body length so I added 2” in pattern to the body, and the trim will add about another ¾ of an inch.
     
    When, all is said and done, and it is time to block the garment, I’m thinking that I will gently wash and let it dry on my dressmaker’s form, as I can set it to whatever measurements are desired.

    One of my biggest frustrations is that the blog site can be rather glitchy, locking up and losing the comments that one is working on. I guess it's trying to tell me something!!

    Now, I am far from an experienced and/or expert crochet designer – artist, and this is my first adult garment in crochet (I usually knit). However, this crochet along has inspired a bit of a passion in me for crocheting, and I’ve so enjoyed following everyone’s progress….
     
    Attached is my progress to date, the tie comparison, and the beginning of the edge trim.
     
    Happy crocheting!

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  • Mmele059

    When it says to turn at the beginning of the 2nd row do you actually turn nag go in the other direction? Do you turn at the beginning of all subsequent rows to 9(10)?

  • Nealandmarileem

    I just started this yesterday cause i had something else to finish before last weekend so i hope someone sees this!! :) I have done the chain several times (1x) both ways and i have had extra chains on both ways! with the alt.. to sew together after...i have three extra chains. i have counted and have the right number of dc. in between the v stiches. so what now i dont want a big hole in the back of the pullover. 

  • Mary

    Help! I asked a question yesterday and can't find it to see if anyone replied. I'm having trouble getting to the current blog site. My question was about the yoke fitting me in hook size H and then the body being extremely large - 9 inches more than the posted size for large of 39 inches. I had asked if switching to size G hook would be enough or if I needed to make some decreases. If anyone replies, please also tell me how to get to the current discussion board. Thank you, Mary

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