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Monthly Archives: July 2011

  • What Is Fingering/Sock/Sport/DK/Worsted...Weight Yarn?

    Yarn weights go by so many different names, it can be difficult to keep track of what's what! (For example, did you know that Fingering weight and Sock weight are one and the same?)

    To help you out, we've compiled a chart using the yarn weight standards developed by the Craft Yarn Council, along with examples of Lion Brand Yarn in each category.

    Yarn Weight Symbol/Category Name Commonly Used Names Example of Lion Brand Yarn
    Cobweb, Lace, Crochet Thread
    LB Collection® Wool Stainless Steel *
    Sock, Fingering, Baby
    LB Collection® Silk Mohair
    Sport, Baby
    Vanna's Glamour™
    DK, Light Worsted
    LB Collection® Cotton Bamboo
    Worsted, Afghan, Aran
    Chunky, Craft, Rug
    Wool-Ease® Chunky
    Bulky, Roving
    Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick®

    * Note: Although LB Collection® Wool Stainless Steel is listed on our website as a Category 1 Super Fine yarn, it may be used as a Category 0 yarn.

    Interested in learning more about which of our yarns are in which weight category? Click here to check out our list of yarns by weight class on LionBrand.com.

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  • Mesh Raglan Pullover Crochet-Along: Adding the Sleeves

    Welcome back to the Mesh Raglan Pullover CAL! Hopefully working on the body of your pullover has gone well and you were able to make it the length you want by being able to try it on as you go! Gotta love top-down sweaters, right? This pullover is almost done! Today I'm going to talk to you all about sleeves - then next week it's on to the finishing touches and this sweater will be complete!

    For the sleeves, you are going back to the marked double crochet and chains that you used to create the body only this time you are working the stitches into the armhole opening. As with the body, be sure to read the notes and pay particular attention to whether you should start on the right or wrong side for your size. The other very important note is that you working the first few stitches into the chains you skipped over while making the body. Otherwise working the sleeves around is just like a smaller version of the body, working dc, ch-1 in each dc around.

    The chain between the stitch markers has the single sleeve dc between the two dc of the body from before (for the size M with a chain of 3 at the underarms)

    A lot of you asked early on about making the sleeves longer. Just as with the body, this is very easy to do! At the simplest, just continue to work more rounds until the sleeves are the length you want, trying it on as you go to see how the fit is coming. As another option, work as above but decrease the number of stitches every 2-3 rounds to shape the sleeve a little smaller as you work towards your elbow.

    To work a decrease in this mesh stitch I would recommend working one decrease at the point of the sleeve on the underside of your arm by working your turning chain of 4, then skip the next dc that you would normally work into and instead work your first dc in next dc.

    Note the skipped dc below the turning chain. While it does leave a larger hole in the mesh stitch pattern, it is not as noticeable when placed on the underside of the sleeve.

    You can also work the decreases at any other point in the sleeve as follows, but keep in mind it will leave a larger space wherever placed:

    1. Work up to where you want to work the decrease.
    2. Work your regular dc, ch-1, only skip the next dc and ch-1 space,
    3. Work the next dc in the following dc, ch-1 and continue in pattern as normal.

    What this accomplishes is a decrease of a dc and a ch-1 space without an interruption in the pattern. This will tuck the sleeve in a bit on the underside of the arm and will help the sleeve from staying very open. It's a great option to decrease slightly even if you don't lengthen the sleeves as it will help bring the sleeve in a bit if your yoke turned out a little loose. If you choose to decrease, be sure to decrease an even number of times so the edging works out evenly.

    Lastly for the sleeve is a trim round where you are working in a completely different pattern than the mesh stitch used so far. Instead you are focusing on working stitches into the ch-1 spaces we have been skipping and not working into the dc stitches at all. Otherwise it's a nice (sc, ch 3, dc) in every other ch-1 space to make a nice lacy trim.

    So get to work on your sleeves and next week it's all about finishing up this great pullover! Keep sharing your comments and photos of your progress!

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  • Michelle Edwards Explores Darning

    One of the best things about the yarncrafting community is the stories crafters share. This story comes from author and crafter extraordinaire Michelle Edwards. She relates how while watching her friend Monica (pictured at left with puppets of the Owl Glass Puppetry Center) deftly mend a sock, she learned more about her friend and about the care and keeping of well worn socks. She even includes a list of her tips for darning at the end of her story.

    Look out for a new story by Michelle Edwards each month in our popular newsletter, The Weekly Stitch. Click here to subscribe.

    Michelle writes:

    Sometimes darning is about routine sock maintenance. Sometimes it’s about preserving and respecting gifts. Other times, it may be more than the socks that get mended; a bond may be repaired by engaging together in a worthwhile companionable activity.

    Click here to read Michelle's full story.

    Do you darn? Who taught you? Do you have any darning hints for the newbies?

    Leave a comment below and share your darning story.

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